It was quite a challenge not to lose track during the last edition of Premium exhibitions – over 1.000 labels presented their A/W 17/18 collections and the hallways were packed with the newest styles on the rack.

The first day was already very busy and the exhibitors were of course absolutely happy: „We are totally satisfied and it is only the first day of the tradeshow. It is crowded and people are curious about our collection – I can`t ask for more”, says Julia-Caroline Jüngling of Berlin based label Ten117.

Patrick Stupp, Rich&Royal: “It is our third season in the separate Atelier space and that works extremely well for us. We have enough space to build up our Rich&Royal setting and display the collection and we had a lot of new customers that came to our booth this year.”

Newcomer brands like August from Estonia or Jeneral Eve and Saladbowls from Korea, who displayed in Hall 1, benefitted from the high visitor numbers. “This is our first time at Premium and it has been only two hours but good two hours. We were a little bit afraid, that we won’t get recognized because we are new but visitors are interested in our collection and we already had some good talks”, says Ali Kargoja from Estonian label August.

It is no news that a visit at a tradeshow provides you with a full range of trends, especially when the brand portfolio gets bigger and bigger.  With the increase of new labels and the growth of collections – it is likely to find something for every taste but it also bears the risk that a lot of styles will become replaceable.

For that reason it becomes more and more important for retailers to have a clear view, a distinct fashion statement and a clear style direction regarding their assortment.  

For Michael Bailey, owner of Bailey Diehl in Frankfurt, Premium exhibition is an important fair not only because he finds new labels but also because he sees what he can leave out: “In my opinion there is just too much stock on the shop floor. You need to have the guts to declutter your assortment and brands also need to take stock back, in case you don`t sell it. I don’t want to have a permanent sale in my store just because I want to get rid of the last season collection. A lot of brands sugar coat the situation. It is not that easy at the moment. Individualization is more important than ever, you have to stand out and that gets harder and harder every season.”

Nevertheless there were five big trends that could be seen in a lot of collections:

  1. fur and fake fur jackets and coats (women)
  2. velvet tops, bottoms, blazers, jumpsuits (women)
  3. 80’s and 90’s inspired sportswear (women & men)
  4. flower tops , lurex turtlenecks – a modern bohemian hippie look  (women)
  5. sweaters, hoodies and trackpants with logoprints (women & men)

Top 5 new labels:

  1. Salt & Spin (denim)
  2. Beta Studios (functional sportswear/casualwear)
  3. August (womenswear)
  4. Saladbowls (sweatshirts)
  5. Jeneral Eve (menswear & womenswear)

Top 3 denim trends women:

  1. highwaist
  2. color-blocking
  3. shredded