CIFF Paris (21-24 June) didn’t land in the city of lights for its premiere outing quietly – the satellite event of the major Copenhagen fair felt like a full-blown tradeshow in its own right. Some 85 exhibitors from Denmark and beyond gathered within the vast Garage Amelot in the city’s 11th arrondissement. Brands including Ahluwalia Studio, 66°North, Hummel Hive and Tonsure were divided across four individual spaces, all on different levels, and with plenty of space for each booth – particularly on the top floor, where contenders such as Astrid Andersen and Carcel were housed.
Conceived as a “dynamic, creative hub,” CIFF Paris also served up a number of “special projects” with collaborators and artists, all under the creative direction of London-based industry figure Stavros Karelis of multibrand retailer Machine-A. An installation showcasing the work of four Central Saint Martins MA talents – Sheryn Akiki, Goom Heo, Kitty Garratt and Marvin Desroc – was among these initiatives.
To comment on the tradeshow itself and the feedback we received from the many exhibitors we spoke to, footfall was somewhat modest on the first day and the morning of the second, but the activity picked up thereafter and buyers from countries including Japan, Italy and the UK – as well as France, naturally – were out in force.
CIFF Paris marks the start of the fair’s spreading its wings globally – you might well find it in other major cities in the future, though we have no tangible news to share just yet.
Here, a handful of standout collections and promising new labels spotted at CIFF Paris:
Mexican four-year-old brand The Pack draws on its creative director’s heritage – the culture of the Charro. In Campillo’s hands, the traditional uniform of “the original cowboys” has been given a contemporary spin, resulting in something unique. Natural materials such as linen, leather and denim feature prominently, often combined within the same paneled garment. These wide, paper-bag-waist denim pants feature a leather side-stripe applique, while linen tunics come with hand-carved bone buttons similar to those studding the traditional Charro shirt.
When dreaming up the SS20 collection, sustainable brand Forét’s co-founders Jesper Finderup and Jeppe Meier imagined a “Sunday safari” – an adventure to embark on in natural or urban environs. This organic cotton shirt – featuring a “leo-camo” print hand-drawn by Finderup – perfectly illustrates the theme’s dual identity. Other notable pieces include shirts and shorts with contrast cord pockets and panels; and zip-front “shackets”.
Transparency has emerged as something of a micro menswear trend for s/s'20 and Copenhagen-based designer Astrid Andersen proves that it lends itself well even to sport-inspired silhouettes. The designer’s signature tracksuit has been rendered in organza, and so too anoraks and trench-coats, as well as hoodies – such as the one seen here, featuring layered dip-dying in shades of blue, grey and black.
Japanese designer Shinya Kozuka, who graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2013, brought his distinctive SS20 offering to CIFF Paris The range include a number of updates classics, such as the excellent “trench-ish” denim coat and these oversized pants, crafted from 12oz Japanese denim, treated to give a paper-like structure.
Finnish sports heritage brand Terinit has resurfaced under the creative direction of Rolf Ekroth. Its second collection since the re-launch centers on sportswear-inspired pieces in the literal sense of the word – think cycling overalls and soccer shorts. Another case in point: this oversized ice-hockey jacquard knit with football motif.