Premium Berlin and Show & Order, the two shows taking place at Station Berlin and the nearby Kuehlhaus, started their first day quietly, though became increasingly busier and livelier through the following hours and days. Both shows presented numerous inspiring and interesting novelties though each of them involved its visitors in many side initiatives: Premium hosted various talks, get-togethers and parties, while Show & Order involved its public in live experiences that made it further interact with its exhibitors.
Eco is in the air
Both shows, but especially Premium, presented a vast selection of brands keenly focused on finding alternative production paths, new materials and approaches that can impact the environment less. It’s a trend, but let’s not hope it lasts for one or two seasons only.
On the first day of the show Premium Group organized its “Sustainable Future Think Tank” and involved various insiders and players discussing how a real change of mind can happen. Among the speakers there were Javier Goyeneche (Ecoalf), Jordan Nodarse (Boyish Jeans) and Patrick Andrist (Omnibrad Group). Some of most important topics of discussion were politics, certifications and the culture of consumption.
Many exhibitors presented some of their most innovative and sustainable products. Among them, Armedangels offered Detox Denim. The project, launched a season ago, includes jeans made with organic certified cotton, no chlorine and no heavy metal treatments. It also offers a new light brown jeans option made with Candiani Denim dyed with a natural dye obtained from leaves and remains of cotton plants, and another one made with denim by Isko employing organic cotton, a special recycled polyester that guarantees high-elasticity together with 2% elastane.
Liu Jo presented its second eco-friendly denim selection named Liu Jo Better Denim. This collection offers 21 pieces in different fits and washes. It is made with Candiani Denim fabrics that use chitosan and the Indigo Juice technology according to a manufacturing process that dramatically reduces water, chemical and energy consumption.
Also interesting were Verdura sandals, shoes and bathing suits. This Made in Italy brand offers sandals made with cork and pineapple components, natural and recycled rubber soles, and uppers made with used fishnets. For winter it also offers sneakers whose uppers are made with fishnet, canvas and a fabric obtained from pineapple fiber. If a consumer wants to throw away his old Verdura shoes the company can reuse them for producing skateboards and surfboards. A few apparel pieces and bathing suits are made with Econyl, a nylon fiber obtained by recycling old fishing nets and other nylon remains.
Loving outdoor and sportswear
National Geographic, the non-profit membership organization driven by its passion for science and exploration, launched its first National Geographic Apparel collection. The first two drops of this collection will be launched in Germany for f/w 2019-20 and later will grow into a more complete look for s/s 2020 to be delivered in three drops and later further expand Europewide. The collection is developed by Corem Licensing, the apparel-licensing arm of Hong Kong-based fashion sourcing company Omnibrand Group. The operation’s licensor is IMG from London.
The collection offers functional sportswear apparel for men, though also includes a few pieces for women. Also part of the selection are pieces made with recycled PET and eco-friendly padding.
Alpha Tauri, the sportswear brand founded by Red Bull and focused on innovative fashion technology, is launching a new retail concept that can be mounted in 20 minutes only. The retail concept can be transported via truck system and can host up to a 60-sq.-meter store. It can be used for pop-up stores, engaging activities or special events. The brand is now sold in two monobrand stores in Austria and 24 multibrand stores in DACH countries. The company also launched a selection of outer jackets made with a special Schoeller fabric that has a soft cotton-touch though it is made according to a 3D layer system and can resist a 5k water column.
Sportiness for everyday
Drykorn launched Drynamics, a selection of smart urban pieces made with functional fabrics.
Colmar opted for bright and energetic hues mixing silver surfaces with vitamin-like hue grosgrains. Colmar Originals revamped bright clashing colors and graphics from the ’70s.
For the 2021 America’s Cup happening in Auckland Prada’s Lunarossa sailing team will wear a special collection made in collaboration with North Sails. Most of the items will also be eco-friendly as they are made with a special nylon obtained by recycling PET bottles.
Where does denim go?
Apart from taking a sustainable direction, denim and jeanswear offer more directions for s/s 2020. Slightly rinsed and authentic are the must for Joop! Jeans. Seventies inspired with a wisteria-shade and sulfur-treated, are some of Gang’s jeans. Pastel hues characterize Haikure’s jeans, while PRPS opts for against-the-tide irregularly bleached jeans.
A perfect complement for this mix of inspirations are highly decorated jackets by Domrebel Montreal, a Canadian tops, jeans and leather jacket brand specialized in customizing and decorating items for VIPs and special clients though also selling through international multibrand luxury stores.
The women’s brand Sister Laela offers a few cool denim items such as a slightly rinsed miniskirt with adjustable drawstrings on its front and an fancy apron-dress completed with straps and strings to be wrapped on one’s body and back.
Pastels and embroidered tablecloths
Delicate and bright hues are another must of the season as seen at Rich & Royal. Light greens, pale yellows and wisteria shades dominate the palette of this collection.
Chic, bon-ton and eco-friendly is Worldpearslove, a newborn collection that has just debuted and is made with secondhand embroidered tablecloths collected from all over the world and transformed into romantic-cool blouses, tunics and skirts.