With its latest edition (February 1-3, 2017), CIFF has further proven its relevance as Scandinavia’s biggest fashion trade show across all the different segments it is catering to – from up and coming newcomers or limited distribution designer streetwear to more mass-market, commercially established men’s- and womenswear. The reason why all these different demands and offerings work so well under one roof is a very well thought-through segmentation or – as in trend language - “curation”.

On the upper, hipper end of the market, CIFF especially shone on the men’s side, with its dedicated CIFF Raven area uniting many tone-setting names from the scene, including a sunglasses installation by Super x Gosha Rubchinskiy, a showroom by Milan’s hottest creative/sales agency Slam Jam (showcasing their own collaboration line with Carhartt WIP as well as the supercool Napapijri by Matine Rose, PAM x Australian, Alpha Industries x 424 capsule collections and more) and similar-minded Copenhagen local Rich & Hanc agency (Han Kjobenhavn, Hi-Tec sneakers, The North Face Red, Halo, Kappa etc.).

Next to well-known Scandi favorites and new talents, the fair definitely showed some British influence – with a remarkable amount of high-profile London buyers being around, a roaster of exciting (new) British collections such as Grind London, E. Tautz or the brands represented by the Nanazuki agency or the fashion presentation by Lulu Kennedy, founder of London’s talent support platform Fashion East on Wednesday afternoon.

Additionally, CIFF inaugurated its own runway location “CIFF showscene” this season. The separated hall facing the Urban area hosted fashion shows by several interesting names including Tonsure, Martin Asbjorn and Han Kjobenhavn on Wednesday and Thursday. Its proximity to the trade show was both a plus for fair visitors as it was a bit of a stop-go for those who only followed the general show schedule of Copenhagen Fashion Week in the inner city (center).

As for this season’s CIFF offerings, here are our favorite picks:

Best stories: Within the artfully designed Raven Projects area, renowned Japanese retailer BEAMS hosted a selection of its favorite homegrown brands plus their own self-titled line of denim and vintage cotton pieces.

Amongst the labels were several highlights, such as the versatile jackets by newcomer label Name or the ORIGINAL souvenir jackets by Tailor Toyo, who have been producing the current fashion favorite since the 1940s – when US soldiers commissioned them to make a Japanese souvenir stitching on their bomber jackets when they were leaving their base and went back to America. (Funnily, US soldiers commissioned the same Tokyo-based company for Vietnamese souvenir jackets after the Vietnam War.)

Best denim: The holistic indigo collection by Japanese FDMTL – their beautiful installation implied not only jeans, but also an indigo covered Eames chair, denim rugs, bags, teddy bears and a beautiful sneaker cooperation with Vans.

Best line debut: Antwerp based authentic denim brand Eat Dust with a soft spot for motorbikes introduced their first women’s line at CIFF. It is composed of super easy to wear, boxy workwear jackets and pants, knitwear and flannels in beautiful fabrics.

Call it a comeback: Since 2012, sportswear brand H2O, which had its heyday somewhere in the ‘80s and ‘90s, is in the hands of its current Danish owners. These managed to already kick-off a comeback on its home turf with currently 60 doors in Denmark selling the retro-cool shirts, sweaters socks and accessories. Now, the brand wants to expand this, especially to the German market. Cool add-on: Their current collaboration with Han Kjobenhavn, including bathrobes and sweatpants.

Also currently surfing on the retro-sportswear wave is Helly Hansen, whose joint collection with Swedish streetwear brand Sweet SKTBS was exhibited at CIFF.

Most creative collection: Striped bomber jackets with detachable sleeves, zipped neoprene boots, a “soft sweatpant meets cargo baggy” hybrid, statement denim caps and much more: Italian-made menswear label Sunnei had it all.

Best collaboration: Slam Jam presented the uber-cool capsule collection by London-designer Matine Rose and Italian outdoor brand Napapijri. Rose blew up the proportions of classic Napapijri staples, resulting in super-sized booble fleece hoodies and patent anoraks.

Save buy: Hoodies, hoodies, hoodies – from soft and sporty cotton variants to more high end fabrications – hoodies were a safe bet in almost every collection.

Here to stay: Furry mules (or shoes in general) and the layering trend (slip dress over anything) are definitely will definitely stay around in womenswear for longer.

Footwear brand to watch: Through collaborations with Norse Projects, Vibram and more, Suicoke from Japan make a name in men’s footwear over recent seasons, mainly for its range of sandals. But the Japanese brand is also making sheepskin-padded winter footwear, always on the edge of the “ugly shoe trend”.

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