Other shows happening in the same days were also a great recall: White Milano registered 23,000 visitors (4% more visitors and +14% foreign buyers) and Super was visited by 5,100 buyers.
We compiled the best trends and news for you:
Be colorful be happy
Loads of colors – mostly orange, bright yellow and shocking pink total looks, or simply accents added to real or eco-fur elements characterized many collections including Emporio Armani, Alberto Guardiani, Le Silla, Dondup, Carlos Gil, Atsushi Nakashima, Ermanno Scervino, Simonetta Ravizza, Blumarine and Pedro Pedro. But also red and fluo blue total looks by Giorgio Armani will be hot. Also new are mixes of clashing blue and green hues as seen at Genny. Purple, instead, is cool again as presented by Salvatore Ferragamo and Maurizio Pecoraro.
Wearing art pieces
Other brands played with colors by designing some real modern art pieces through their collections and creating abstract colorful patterns like, for instance, Byblos, Giorgio Armani, Unique by Roberto Musso, and Laura Biagiotti. Etro played with different ethnic inspiration, patterns and motives mixing them in the same garment. Krizia built dress-sculptures and Leitmotiv played with lively patterns and applications. Dolce&Gabbana redesigned pajamas, dresses, tops and jackets – all thought for great and beloved families - applying artful decors, flowers and embroideries. Biagiotti added brush strokes on her coats’ surface and Arthur Aberdesser created highly colorful small geometric effects on its clothes’ surface. Antonio Marras created unique fabric patchworks.
Back to the ’80s and ’90s
A generic return to silhouettes inspired by the ’80s and ’90s is in the air with oversize jackets, tops and dresses, as seen at Anteprima, Pedro Pedro but also Situationist, Krizia, Laura Biagiotti. Huge knitwear tops are in as seen at Anteprima, Cristiano Burani and Antonio Marras. Various pleated long skirts were also offered by many designers. Vien and Genny played with asymmetries, another cool aspect those years are reviving. On the same track, Kristina Ti mixed more layers in the same outfit giving a new movement to silhouettes.
Quoting is cool
A widespread element for this season were brands quoting overtly their source of inspiration that – most often themselves.
Diesel Black Gold, for instance, while bringing back ’90’s elements such as elongated feminine silhouettes, urban denim salopette skirts and lots of mutton jackets – short or longer and in ciré variants - brought back some of Diesel’s past elements though presented in modern context and with new liveliness.
King in reviving most different designers’ handwritings was Gucci that reinterpreted with great styling ability its own most iconic elements, but also quoted many other prestigious brands such as ideas from Chanel (by Mademoiselle Coco) made of soft long cardigans with contrasting color edges, though many other elements sometimes own and sometimes borrowed from other prestigious designers enriched this collection.
Another designer quoting herself was Anna Molinari whose Blumarine was celebrating its 40th anniversary. She presented some of the brand’s most iconic pieces and bestsellers while reinventing them for the future. Most renowned are her cashmere tops in bright pastels with a crystal logo, worn with broken knee jeans.
Also, Prada quoted herself by recreating her own conceptual silhouettes, adding visible fur hems in various colors or hyping colorful clashing pattern mixes.
Designers love metissage and reinventing their own or other’s creativity but will consumers love it too? Until now it looks like yes as sales seem to register positive results.
Masculine and military always a must
Masculine attitude and materials like ribbed cord (Ermanno Scervino and Prada), military pieces redesigned for women (Dondup) with wider and comfier trousers, and high-waisted pants show a new austere though interesting direction.
Recycling – the new cool
Very cool and not for granted at all are collections playing with the idea of recycling and reemploying fabrics and materials for new uses. Most ironic and creative were Moschino (also see report) – whose entire collection was built on the idea that recycling can also enter pret-à-porter - and Maurizio Pecoraro who only showed a few items that were made resembling old recycled Persian carpets
Hosting new talents
The Milanese week also hosted various young new brands – most often from outside of Italy. Xu Zhi, Chinese young brand, presented a high craftsmanship collection made by sewing fringed fabric pieces (often also denim) for sophisticated tops, dresses and trousers.
Also Ricostru, another young Chinese label, presented garments made with a mix of synthetic materials like eco-leather, eco-pony-horse and changeant silvery velvets. The brand also played with leather jackets reinvented into new garments – either cropped or oversize – though always reminding of the designer’s love for a ‘80s German rock band – Einstürzende Neubauten.
Also hosted were two Portuguese designers – Carlos Gil and Pedro Pedro – the first one playing with colorful plain oversize garments and the second one with variants of outer jackets and colorful parkas.
Experimental new modern shoe styles were presented by Atsushina Nakashima who created asymmetric geometric models and Arthur Aberdesser that partnered with Vibram and launched a new shoe style. Alberto Guardiani added fake fur to sandals and sneakers and Le Silla made sneakers and boots added with pink mink elements.
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For more information on trade shows check out DFV Group’s expocheck.com.
