Milan Fashion Week has just made it return, after two years of pandemic, as a physical live event. It took place from 22 February to 28 February 2022. Designers' collections presented an impressive display of energy, new ideas, care for the environment and great quality collections. Still, the mood had been toned down because of the Russia-Ukraine conflict that opened new difficult sceneries in the geopolitical situation and in the economic and financial world.
For Italian textile districts, in particular, the effects are more pronounced in trade with Russia, including trade fairs, while trade with Ukraine is less pronounced. In general, the immediate consequences of this conflict could be seen in terms of further increases in energy prices, especially for the cost of gas.
Another important aspect is the aftermath of the conflict, the loss of lives and the migration of refugees that triggered reactions among many protagonists of Milan Fashion Week. Giorgio Armani chose to showcase his collection in complete silence. "My decision not to use any music in the show was made as a sign of respect towards the people involved in the unfolding tragedy in Ukraine," he said.
Alessandro Michele, creative director, Gucci, commented: "It was complex to prepare the show in these conditions. At the beginning, I was almost annoyed by the idea of doing work that is apparently so distant from war. The night before the show I almost didn't eat dinner, and I was very confused, then I realized that this doing of mine in such a loving, refined way and full of love towards the beautiful things I create and, in general, this work is something that gets in tune with the idea of life and is the opposite of what war does."
Also, Manuela Mariotti, co-owner, Seafarer: "War is always wrong, and the biggest problem is that innocent people always get hurt. All this will also translate itself in Europe in every sector, but I hope we can keep alive some of the positive wave that has arrived after the pandemic. We hope we can keep our feet on the ground and hope this tragedy solves as soon as possible."
Eco-friendliness lives
Looking at collections presented within MFW, some key trends have clearly emerged and will rule for f/w 2022/2023. A stronger attention for eco-friendliness, circularity and love for upcycling have dominated various fashion shows.
Blue Of A Kind has expanded the offerings of its collection by making it a complete total look, while still staying true to its DNA that reuses post-consumer garments, disassembles and reassembles them into new, one-of-a-kind born garments. It also uses fabrics with very small defects or leftovers and dyes them according to an innovative and super-sustainable process, based on coloring with cotton powder obtained by shredding old garments and production waste, divided by color. The water used in the process is filtered and is therefore not wasted.
Diesel saw the debut of the new collection signed by Glenn Martens, most of whose was created from fully recycled denim, and indigo cotton dyed without using water. It also used denim made from recycling Diesel’s production scraps into a new collection - Diesel Rehab Denim - created in partnership with denim specialist Tejidos Royo. 
Max Mara has placed at the center of the scene, its coats that emphasized new slouchy and swagger silhouettes. In addition to its iconic Teddy Bear Coat, an already successful alternative to natural fur, it has proposed down jackets with padding derived from the process of upcycling the fabric of the iconic coat, as well as using Teddy Bear as for a tunic, a long skirt and a pair of shorts.
Other brands have opted for eco-friendly padding. Among them are BPD who chose Primaloft wadding and OOF Wear who used green and recycled materials for padding the inside of their jackets.
Gilberto Calzolari has played with the austerity of military garments, balanced with more extravagant and feminine pieces carrying an abstract camouflage design. Many pieces were made with GOTS certified Bio-silk added with Oeko-Tex finishing by Clerici Tessuto. It also offered dresses in bio-georgette embellished with lead-free Swarovski crystals, and a faux fur-trimmed military hood.
Designer and entrepreneur Chichi Meroni has launched Recercle Milano L'Arabesque, a new line made by upcycling already existing pieces from her own archive or unsold pieces from previous seasons transformed thanks to her tailor-made sartorial know-how, into new garments with a reinvented silhouette and aesthetic.
Is genderless the new black?
Gender-fluidity was at the center of the stage as presented, by Gucci, who dressed women with mens’ suits and announced an overall collaboration with Adidas, stressing further its unisex love for men-meets-woman apparel and his passion for chic streetwear and sportswear. 
Prada liked to mix tailoring with softness. Pragmatic pieces like, for instance, the white tank top, a synonym with masculinity and practicity, were given new emphasis and significance, combined with the language of evening clothes like gentle gowns, Lurex elements and transparent, soft pieces often mixed with men’s oversize blazers.
Weekend Max Mara presented a new collaboration with designer Patricia Urquiola, 'Weekend Max Mara Habito by Patricia Urquiola', betting on unisex boxy sporty looks.
Cormio, made its debut at MFW, and presented a choir of young non-professional model singers dresses beyond genders, while showing a vast series of fresh alternative uniforms made up of cool color mixes, lively knitwear pieces, ’70s inspired skirts, trousers and trenches. 
Other genderless looks were also presented by Dondup, CGDS, Eleventy, Sapio, Antonio Ortega and Sportmax, frequently playing with oversize essential looks perfect for any consumer type, size and style.
In love with craftsmanship
Expertise, know-how and great care for details still catch the attention among many brands, each one playing their own hit. Seafarer presented unique handmade knitwear pieces and tailor-made off-frayed sleeved jackets completed by sleeves in different materials. Emporio Armani played with color and material mixes added with macro sequins and unique color combinations, while Etro bet on unique artistic patchwork effect knitwear and jackets. 
Dolce&Gabbana opted for application, rhinestones, embroideries. Other examples include Scervino’s embroidered knitwear, while Biagiotti and Sportmax liked to play with metallic coatings added respectively on knitwear or as special appliqués on dresses and outfits.
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For Italian textile districts, in particular, the effects are more pronounced in trade with Russia, including trade fairs, while trade with Ukraine is less pronounced. In general, the immediate consequences of this conflict could be seen in terms of further increases in energy prices, especially for the cost of gas.
Another important aspect is the aftermath of the conflict, the loss of lives and the migration of refugees that triggered reactions among many protagonists of Milan Fashion Week. Giorgio Armani chose to showcase his collection in complete silence. "My decision not to use any music in the show was made as a sign of respect towards the people involved in the unfolding tragedy in Ukraine," he said.
Alessandro Michele, creative director, Gucci, commented: "It was complex to prepare the show in these conditions. At the beginning, I was almost annoyed by the idea of doing work that is apparently so distant from war. The night before the show I almost didn't eat dinner, and I was very confused, then I realized that this doing of mine in such a loving, refined way and full of love towards the beautiful things I create and, in general, this work is something that gets in tune with the idea of life and is the opposite of what war does."
Also, Manuela Mariotti, co-owner, Seafarer: "War is always wrong, and the biggest problem is that innocent people always get hurt. All this will also translate itself in Europe in every sector, but I hope we can keep alive some of the positive wave that has arrived after the pandemic. We hope we can keep our feet on the ground and hope this tragedy solves as soon as possible."
Eco-friendliness lives
Looking at collections presented within MFW, some key trends have clearly emerged and will rule for f/w 2022/2023. A stronger attention for eco-friendliness, circularity and love for upcycling have dominated various fashion shows.
Blue Of A Kind has expanded the offerings of its collection by making it a complete total look, while still staying true to its DNA that reuses post-consumer garments, disassembles and reassembles them into new, one-of-a-kind born garments. It also uses fabrics with very small defects or leftovers and dyes them according to an innovative and super-sustainable process, based on coloring with cotton powder obtained by shredding old garments and production waste, divided by color. The water used in the process is filtered and is therefore not wasted.
Diesel saw the debut of the new collection signed by Glenn Martens, most of whose was created from fully recycled denim, and indigo cotton dyed without using water. It also used denim made from recycling Diesel’s production scraps into a new collection - Diesel Rehab Denim - created in partnership with denim specialist Tejidos Royo.
Photo: Diesel
Diesel
Other brands have opted for eco-friendly padding. Among them are BPD who chose Primaloft wadding and OOF Wear who used green and recycled materials for padding the inside of their jackets.
Gilberto Calzolari has played with the austerity of military garments, balanced with more extravagant and feminine pieces carrying an abstract camouflage design. Many pieces were made with GOTS certified Bio-silk added with Oeko-Tex finishing by Clerici Tessuto. It also offered dresses in bio-georgette embellished with lead-free Swarovski crystals, and a faux fur-trimmed military hood.
Designer and entrepreneur Chichi Meroni has launched Recercle Milano L'Arabesque, a new line made by upcycling already existing pieces from her own archive or unsold pieces from previous seasons transformed thanks to her tailor-made sartorial know-how, into new garments with a reinvented silhouette and aesthetic.
Is genderless the new black?
Gender-fluidity was at the center of the stage as presented, by Gucci, who dressed women with mens’ suits and announced an overall collaboration with Adidas, stressing further its unisex love for men-meets-woman apparel and his passion for chic streetwear and sportswear.
Photo: Gucci
Gucci
Weekend Max Mara presented a new collaboration with designer Patricia Urquiola, 'Weekend Max Mara Habito by Patricia Urquiola', betting on unisex boxy sporty looks.
Cormio, made its debut at MFW, and presented a choir of young non-professional model singers dresses beyond genders, while showing a vast series of fresh alternative uniforms made up of cool color mixes, lively knitwear pieces, ’70s inspired skirts, trousers and trenches.
Photo: Cormio
Cormio
In love with craftsmanship
Expertise, know-how and great care for details still catch the attention among many brands, each one playing their own hit. Seafarer presented unique handmade knitwear pieces and tailor-made off-frayed sleeved jackets completed by sleeves in different materials. Emporio Armani played with color and material mixes added with macro sequins and unique color combinations, while Etro bet on unique artistic patchwork effect knitwear and jackets.
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
Seafarer
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