What characterizes a brand’s evolution most in terms of environmental consciousness? Conscious materials and low-impact productive processes are no longer the only essential elements in defining a sustainable product. How a piece of clothing is conceived and designed is as important–if not more important–in lowering its impact as it sets the frame and roadmap for its making, it defines most of its characteristics and future destiny–including its afterlives.
The SPIN OFF asked some major international outerwear brands what the key aspects guiding their design process are and how they influence their evolution. Here's the second part of our "survey."
Designing for recycling…and reselling
More brands believe it’s time to evolve and change one’s attitude in design, a step that every player in the market should start taking more seriously. “Designers have to change their way of thinking about style,” explains Daniele Grasso, vice president of product and apparel at Jack Wolfskin. “It’s really crucial to start designing great styles which are long-lasting, easy to repair and, when the end of life arrives, easy to recycle. For fall/winter 2022-23 we developed a complete new mono-material jacket with all the efforts and design work we put together. We used recycled materials from pre- and post-consumer old textiles, used minimalistic features, high performance for long-lasting use and easy to recycle by the end of life.”
Designing styles and silhouettes that stand the test of time and are characterized by robust constructions that withstand wear and tear for several years is a must, according to Nobis. “Durable and timeless products not only remain in use for longer, but also maintain their value well and are excellent candidates for resale, which can further increase the lifespan of garments,” says Nobis’ founder Robin Yates. 
Among various initiatives focused on recycling, Peuterey has launched Peuterey Recycle Project, a limited edition project that creatively recoveries archival materials, by bringing scraps, accessories, padding and fabrics back to life.
How aerospace science can help to avoid waste
There are many ways through which design can help to preserve the environment at different steps of the life of a garment.
Agogic is a newborn performance outerwear brand founded by Salome Wilson, former The North Face designer. Together with product developer Sara Campidelli it has experimented a new 3D system for designing and testing products to weather conditions at a very early stage without producing extra prototypes, saving time resources, and avoiding the production of waste that might affect the environment. To reach their goal they partnered with aerospace engineer Alessandro Gambale, CEO of Build Wind, and could apply their expertise with computational fluid dynamics to use 3D technology that tests garment performance design with fabrication digitally, including human condition, physical activity and weather conditions. The first testing and prototyping of this new project called ACTES 3D (Advanced Clothing Technology Engineering Simulation) might be presented by early spring 2022. 
The project has a huge potential and could be used by other designers, material suppliers, clothing and technology companies, and it could bring a significant change to how performance clothing is designed, developed and communicated for consumer and environmental benefits.
Also, the brand Oof Wear has committed to reducing the excessive production of fabric and avoid waste. “We have decided to plan the collection always more transversally, for instance, by using the same fabrics for the women’s and men’s collection, except from two fabrics,” explains the brand’s design team. “We also try to give new life to waste fabric by creating gadgets and accessories entirely made by recycling fabric remains from our production. This way, we can manage to use all of our raw materials without producing waste.” 
Are fur-free and down alternatives a key to sustainability?
Natural origin materials such as fur and down continue to create divisions among brands, producers and consumers as many of them believe they are still the best choice for insulation. Moreover, substituting natural fur in a parka with a synthetic one is not always felt as a truly environmental choice as fur imitations cannot biodegrade, therefore, are more polluting than natural ones. Despite this, many feel that animals are mistreated when raised for the single purpose to be killed for using their fur.
Some brands have recently redesigned most of their hoods and jackets to avoid the use of fur. Among them, for instance, there is Canada Goose. 
Yates, the founder of Nobis, believes that while his brand continues using fur ruffs and down insulation, it recognizes that some customers appreciate more variety. “By looking at our collections, you can see that many of our styles are made without fur and that we are using Primaloft synthetic insulation in some of our mid-layer styles. We are also developing hood systems that can provide a high level of protection without fur. Insulation and warmth are one of the main pillars of our functionality matrix, and we consider down and fur still to provide the best performance in this area, both for performance and durability. Therefore, when working with animal products, we aim to prioritize sustainability and animal welfare and work with trustworthy premium partners that guarantee fair animal treatment.”
Taking a different direction was Jet Set that, during the past three years, has eliminated all furs and down from its collection as an alternative to down and has been working with Minamax, an imitation fur which is made with 100%-recycled fibers obtained from PET bottles. 
Can performance, sustainability and style walk hand in hand?
There are historical brands that have been working hard to progress and deliver products that are always more performing, though also trying to be increasingly less harmful to the environment, as, for instance, Canada Goose. “Sustainable design has taken shape at Canada Goose in a number of ways. Our approach to design is to build products that last a lifetime, not a season. We have been pioneers in slow fashion before the term was even coined, keeping sustainability at the forefront for the past six decades,” says Niamh McManus, senior design director, Canada Goose while underlining that the company was recently recognized with the RDS (Responsible Down Standard) certification, a global standard meant to guarantee premium quality feathers from animals raised in cruelty-free conditions through the whole value chain. As part of its commitment not to sacrifice performance for style, the company has developed its new capsule collection, Humanature, including its Standard Expedition Parka, a style characterized by new materials, fabrics and processes, while still staying true to its function-first model. 
The new style is made of recycled materials and undyed fabrics and has generated 30% less carbon and used 65% less water, compared to its traditional Expedition Parka. The new style is made with “greige” materials aka raw and undyed. It uses cream-tone natural organic cotton and off-white recycled nylons.
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The SPIN OFF asked some major international outerwear brands what the key aspects guiding their design process are and how they influence their evolution. Here's the second part of our "survey."
Designing for recycling…and reselling
More brands believe it’s time to evolve and change one’s attitude in design, a step that every player in the market should start taking more seriously. “Designers have to change their way of thinking about style,” explains Daniele Grasso, vice president of product and apparel at Jack Wolfskin. “It’s really crucial to start designing great styles which are long-lasting, easy to repair and, when the end of life arrives, easy to recycle. For fall/winter 2022-23 we developed a complete new mono-material jacket with all the efforts and design work we put together. We used recycled materials from pre- and post-consumer old textiles, used minimalistic features, high performance for long-lasting use and easy to recycle by the end of life.”
Designing styles and silhouettes that stand the test of time and are characterized by robust constructions that withstand wear and tear for several years is a must, according to Nobis. “Durable and timeless products not only remain in use for longer, but also maintain their value well and are excellent candidates for resale, which can further increase the lifespan of garments,” says Nobis’ founder Robin Yates.
Photo: Nobis
Nobis
How aerospace science can help to avoid waste
There are many ways through which design can help to preserve the environment at different steps of the life of a garment.
Agogic is a newborn performance outerwear brand founded by Salome Wilson, former The North Face designer. Together with product developer Sara Campidelli it has experimented a new 3D system for designing and testing products to weather conditions at a very early stage without producing extra prototypes, saving time resources, and avoiding the production of waste that might affect the environment. To reach their goal they partnered with aerospace engineer Alessandro Gambale, CEO of Build Wind, and could apply their expertise with computational fluid dynamics to use 3D technology that tests garment performance design with fabrication digitally, including human condition, physical activity and weather conditions. The first testing and prototyping of this new project called ACTES 3D (Advanced Clothing Technology Engineering Simulation) might be presented by early spring 2022.
Photo: Agogic
Agogic
Also, the brand Oof Wear has committed to reducing the excessive production of fabric and avoid waste. “We have decided to plan the collection always more transversally, for instance, by using the same fabrics for the women’s and men’s collection, except from two fabrics,” explains the brand’s design team. “We also try to give new life to waste fabric by creating gadgets and accessories entirely made by recycling fabric remains from our production. This way, we can manage to use all of our raw materials without producing waste.”
Photo: Oof Wear
Oof Wear
Are fur-free and down alternatives a key to sustainability?
Natural origin materials such as fur and down continue to create divisions among brands, producers and consumers as many of them believe they are still the best choice for insulation. Moreover, substituting natural fur in a parka with a synthetic one is not always felt as a truly environmental choice as fur imitations cannot biodegrade, therefore, are more polluting than natural ones. Despite this, many feel that animals are mistreated when raised for the single purpose to be killed for using their fur.
Some brands have recently redesigned most of their hoods and jackets to avoid the use of fur. Among them, for instance, there is Canada Goose.
Photo: Canada Goose
Canada Goose
Taking a different direction was Jet Set that, during the past three years, has eliminated all furs and down from its collection as an alternative to down and has been working with Minamax, an imitation fur which is made with 100%-recycled fibers obtained from PET bottles.
Photo: Jet Set
Jet Set
Can performance, sustainability and style walk hand in hand?
There are historical brands that have been working hard to progress and deliver products that are always more performing, though also trying to be increasingly less harmful to the environment, as, for instance, Canada Goose. “Sustainable design has taken shape at Canada Goose in a number of ways. Our approach to design is to build products that last a lifetime, not a season. We have been pioneers in slow fashion before the term was even coined, keeping sustainability at the forefront for the past six decades,” says Niamh McManus, senior design director, Canada Goose while underlining that the company was recently recognized with the RDS (Responsible Down Standard) certification, a global standard meant to guarantee premium quality feathers from animals raised in cruelty-free conditions through the whole value chain. As part of its commitment not to sacrifice performance for style, the company has developed its new capsule collection, Humanature, including its Standard Expedition Parka, a style characterized by new materials, fabrics and processes, while still staying true to its function-first model.
Photo: Canada Goose
Canada Goose
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