What characterizes a brand’s evolution most in terms of environmental consciousness? Conscious materials and low-impact productive processes are no longer the only essential elements in defining a sustainable product. How a piece of clothing is conceived and designed is as important–if not more important–in lowering its impact as it sets the frame and roadmap for its making, it defines most of its characteristics and future destiny–including its afterlives.
The SPIN OFF asked some major international outerwear brands what the key aspects are guiding their design process and how they influence their evolution.
Designing for longevity
“It is said that 80% of the garments’ environmental impacts are determined in the design stage,” says Robin Yates, founder and vice president, Nobis. “Designers can impact material choices and use sustainable design strategies such as designing for durability and repair, recyclability and circularity. They also have the capability to drive sustainable shifts by introducing these concepts into new collections,” he continues. 
The first aspect that characterizes an item’s lowered impact is its longevity, that is, its ability to perform well and look cool for a long time. This way a piece of clothing will be thrown away always later and, therefore, produce less landfill. “We design for longevity, which is not only about quality, but it’s about style, as we are focused on designing a product that is as beautiful when you buy it and ten years later,” says Eva Karlsson, CEO of the Swedish sportswear brand Houdini, explaining how Power Houdi, one of its bestselling items, a fleece top launched in 2003, continues to be successful and continues to be part of its offer.
Woolrich also believes in the importance to design for longevity. “It’s not just about picking the most sustainable materials. At Woolrich, we look at ‘longevity’ as a key component of our approach to lessen our impact. Designing products for ‘longevity’ translates into delivering strong, reliable, performing design and aesthetic that will withstand time and fashion seasons,” explains Alessandro Villa, global chief product and merchandising officer and North American general manager. 
Making sure that a jacket can be worn in most different context also makes a difference and guarantees it can be worn longer as explains Brekka’s general manager, Giuseppe Leonardi: “Each product is thought to last a lifetime. Garments are designed to be worn for everyday urban life and at the same time for an active and sportive life. To make this possible, the quantity of products has been reduced to invest in quality.” 
As part of caring for the environment and for guaranteeing longevity, various brands are committed to offering a repair service. Among others there are, for instance, Houdini, Jack Wolfskin and Goldwin.
Why simplicity wins
Focusing on simpler image products and more essential productive processes is essential when it comes to preserving the environment. “During the last seasons we have been focusing on more minimalistic models by eliminating inserts, trimmings, embroideries, coverings and similar aspects, while keeping the same identity that distinguishes us for our character and energy,” says Paul Mistretta, art director, Bomboogie. “We also choose to collaborate with companies that follow sustainable processes in assembling items by using, among others, handmade productive methods,” he adds, explaining how such a choice helps it keep a stricter control on production and obtain more durable apparel items. 
In recent times Blauer USA is registering a constant increase in the request of pieces made with lower impact materials, like specific paddings, recycled nylons, zippers, and buttons made with recycled materials, but generally essential design pieces. “The simplest products are the ones that sell best,” says Enzo Fusco, owner, Blauer USA. “And this is even more true when it comes to eco-friendly products,” he adds, underlining how most demanding and educated consumers are also those willing to preserve the environment. For all these reasons, they look for more essential products that can be worn beyond one season. 
Is sustainability the new creativity?
Napapijri is one of the first brands that started taking a sustainability path. It was among the first ones to offer jackets entirely made with recyclable materials as, for instance, its Skidoo Infinity, a jacket designed to be 100% recycled and made with Econyl, a material created with Nylon 6, a fiber by Aquafil obtained from recycling nylon fishing nets and other leftover materials. The brand is now betting on further simplifying its design choices.
“Sustainability is the new creativity. This design philosophy is guiding our approach to all the issues that matter for our brand,” says Argu Secilmis, vice president of product and marketing at Napapijri. “We are simplifying our main collection by reducing our color palettes and embracing a less complex approach to garments' construction. Our designers have embraced this journey with enthusiasm and have accepted the challenge lent to us by the principles of circular economy, for example by designing to reduce material complexity–as fewer materials in a garment mean an easier recycling process–and experimenting with production leftovers and scraps to create edgy, sustainable styles,” he continues. 
Among its newest products there is the newly launched Northfarer, a new eco-friendly interpretation of the anorak jacket, a style characterized by a hyper-structured silhouette with clean lines that aim to make this outerwear classic become an urban must-have. It is made with premium materials with water- and windproof properties, while it’s PFC-free. The brand has also been accelerating its efforts to make its garments more eco-conscious as, most recently, it doubled its production in units for Circular Series, its collection of fully recyclable, mono-material, and Cradle to Cradle Certified Gold certified garments.
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The SPIN OFF asked some major international outerwear brands what the key aspects are guiding their design process and how they influence their evolution.
Designing for longevity
“It is said that 80% of the garments’ environmental impacts are determined in the design stage,” says Robin Yates, founder and vice president, Nobis. “Designers can impact material choices and use sustainable design strategies such as designing for durability and repair, recyclability and circularity. They also have the capability to drive sustainable shifts by introducing these concepts into new collections,” he continues.
Photo: Nobis
Nobis
Woolrich also believes in the importance to design for longevity. “It’s not just about picking the most sustainable materials. At Woolrich, we look at ‘longevity’ as a key component of our approach to lessen our impact. Designing products for ‘longevity’ translates into delivering strong, reliable, performing design and aesthetic that will withstand time and fashion seasons,” explains Alessandro Villa, global chief product and merchandising officer and North American general manager.
Photo: Woolrich
Woolrich
Photo: Brekka
Brekka
Why simplicity wins
Focusing on simpler image products and more essential productive processes is essential when it comes to preserving the environment. “During the last seasons we have been focusing on more minimalistic models by eliminating inserts, trimmings, embroideries, coverings and similar aspects, while keeping the same identity that distinguishes us for our character and energy,” says Paul Mistretta, art director, Bomboogie. “We also choose to collaborate with companies that follow sustainable processes in assembling items by using, among others, handmade productive methods,” he adds, explaining how such a choice helps it keep a stricter control on production and obtain more durable apparel items.
Photo: Bomboogie
Bomboogie
Photo: Blauer USA
Blauer USA
Napapijri is one of the first brands that started taking a sustainability path. It was among the first ones to offer jackets entirely made with recyclable materials as, for instance, its Skidoo Infinity, a jacket designed to be 100% recycled and made with Econyl, a material created with Nylon 6, a fiber by Aquafil obtained from recycling nylon fishing nets and other leftover materials. The brand is now betting on further simplifying its design choices.
“Sustainability is the new creativity. This design philosophy is guiding our approach to all the issues that matter for our brand,” says Argu Secilmis, vice president of product and marketing at Napapijri. “We are simplifying our main collection by reducing our color palettes and embracing a less complex approach to garments' construction. Our designers have embraced this journey with enthusiasm and have accepted the challenge lent to us by the principles of circular economy, for example by designing to reduce material complexity–as fewer materials in a garment mean an easier recycling process–and experimenting with production leftovers and scraps to create edgy, sustainable styles,” he continues.
Photo: Napapijri
Napapijri
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