Milano Menswear Fashion Week has been back, finally, with new live events from 17 until 20 June. Despite not much crowded as in past editions, the Milanese kermesse has been an international meeting point for many insiders, and not only Italian ones.
Main trend for the season of the first days of the event, has been going back to normality along with a renewed attention to new habits and lifestyles, and a more careful approach in the selection of materials and productive strategies.
Some key trends that emerged from the menswear fashion shows for s/s 2023 included a return to utility apparel, reinvented workwear overalls and cool chic jeanswear.
This was especially clear as seen at Emporio Armani with lightweight comfy pieces like smart overalls, bleached effect suits and vitaminic green accents.
Aspesi also played with the theme of multistriped overalls, along with comfy knitwear and cool pajamas.
Missoni, now headed by its new creative director Filippo Grazioli, reinterpreted the whole collection playing with the brand's iconic knitwear and patterns reinterpreting menswear suits in comfy and soft touch knitwear versions.
Canali reinterpreted menswear playing with new denim safari jackets and turned-up jeans.
La Martina was back reinventing its look with a vast series of relaxed outfits and by adding new emphasis to the must of the season, the polo shirt.
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
La Martina vintage polo exhibition
Corneliani Circle, the brand’s capsule collection designed by Pauls Surridge, made its debut presenting its new selection in ecofriendly materials like recycled PET, organic cotton and silk interpreted according to softer shoulder construction for jackets and more structured details for boxy shirt-jackets.
Neil Barrett revisited the 90’s minimalism that marked his debut in fashion design. For s/s 2023 he created new modern uniforms meant to face extreme conditions and climate shifts. Engineered for heat, his clothes are panelled and aerated to permit the body to breathe. Windows are opened onto skin, hybrid t-shirts incorporating mesh layers to reveal the skin andf knitwear gets airy.
Dhruv Kapoor opted for mesmerising colors, unconventional silhouettes, abstract prints and multi-layered surfaces reinventing utilitarian apparel according to unexpected proportions
Photo: Marsell x Dhruv Kapoor
Look Dhruv Kapoor look, Marsell foootwear
Every fabric he used was created with a conscious thought as made with 40% up-cycled materials discarded by Indian textile manufacturers and recycled plastic waste. Dhruv Kapoor has also launched his first line of limited-edition leather goods - made with 100% up-cycled leather.
Prada opted for close to the body silhouettes emphasizing the collection’s youthful spirit made up of trousers with short hems at ankles, collarless jackets and youthful pieces including green denim overalls.