Milan Fashion Week has closed its last September edition, putting a strong hype on the whole event.
A reinforced attention to more responsible ways to produce fashion, selecting materials and productive techniques also play an important role for the season. More companies show how much they care more for the environment and promote alternative business models also based, for instance, upon recycling and avoiding waste were also increasingly popular.
Testifying to this trend, for instance, were CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards that prized14 players, among brands, groups and textile manufacturers.
Not less important has been a hype on research and the development of alternative materials, also expressing well the desire to bring a positive change also through innovation.
A (new) material world
With its s/s 2023 women’s collection, Prada has suggested the importance to juxtapose the raw and the sensual, delicacy and roughness through a harmonization of contrasts. With this aim in mind, it has developed various unfinished and uneven fabric effects including a new paper-based fabric for a series of dresses, torn against the body. The resulting effect are animated surfaces showing traces of life through rifts, twists, creases and folds that capture a spontaneity almost expressing memories of beauty embedded in clothes.
While echoing unique architecture reminiscences with sinuous lines and essential silhouettes, Max Mara presented pieces characterised by sinuous lines and pieces designed to be lived in. As part of this collection it presented a series of total looks in lino greggio, an unprocessed and undyed linen, a highly responsible natural hue fabric that it interpreted most differently, sometimes also carrying raw fringed hems.
Within Marco De Vincenzo’s debut as Etro’s new creative director, the Italian brand has stepped in a new more sustainable-meets-funky direction while keeping faithful to the brand’s origins by offering as a see-now-buy now limited edition of 200 of Love Trotter bags.
The bags are made from fabrics taken from Etro’s archives combined with ultra-modern recycled plastics, as well as the brand’s expertise in hand-dyed poly chrome cashmere, in denim brocades, in degradé stripes on cotton shirts. The bags are presented in a recycled paper box, personalized with a Paisley print and upcycled colorful ribbons.
Vitelli is an Italian fabric maker that produces compositions of threads solely obtained by upcycling pre-existing fibers used for new meshes and knits. For this womenswear it offered mini twin-sets and oversize cork-dyed knit coat along with Mary-Jane shoe uppers built on bubbly eco-soles, designed in collaboration with the Japanese brand Grounds. Also, part of the collection were denim cut-outs waists blended into jacquard mermaid-skirts.
As part of Vitelli’s offer there were various items made with “Dombooh”, a 100% reclaimed yarn “felted” that can be used for both knitwear and woven fabrics creating a unique mélange effects.