As the recent movie "Berlin, I love you” says, the German capital often generates unexpected emotions and experiences. Simialrly, great expectations and much excitement characterised the long-awaited edition of Denim PV, debuting in Berlin on May 17 and 18 at Arena Berlin.

Denim PV Berlin, entrance
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
Denim PV Berlin, entrance
The exhibitors participating and the offer of highly innovative products was above the expectations with a significant mix of international high-quality global players along with a noteworthy scouting of upcoming brands offering new sustainable capsule collections created in collaboration with exhibitors.





Among visitors there were less German insiders than the expected ones, though there were both high-end German brands and a significant amount of brands from Berlin, probably because the timing of the show is not the usual one for placing fabric orders for the local industry, and generally because Kingpins Amsterdam had happened less than a month ago.

Denim Pv Berlin, general view
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
Denim Pv Berlin, general view
Apparently, especially international visitors were around - and more on the first day - from various countries, including Northern Europe, France, Spain, Italy, UK, The US and Turkey. Various high-end and designer brands were also visiting the show, including creative teams from Gucci, Dior and Kering Group, along with others like, for instance, Diesel.





The atmosphere was lively and optimistic, showing how much the denim business is looking for a restart, despite consumers seem now to slow down their purchases after some first post-COVID enthusiasm.

Fabio Adami Dalla Val
Photo: Denim Première Vision
Fabio Adami Dalla Val
“We are extremely satisfied with the results of this edition,” commented Fabio Adami Dalla Val, show manager, Denim PV. “We have been traveling through different fashion capitals with this show in the last five years and every time we experience a mix of enthusiasm, worry and a series of unknown aspects due to the new location and city that will host us, but we are very happy with the results we reached and with the comments we received from exhibitors. Plus the atmosphere was truly international,” he added





The show presented f/w 2023/2024 anticipations and a significant offer of innovative materials, especially sustainably-minded ones, but not only.

Deconstructing is the future
A look that pervaded most of the products offered were deconstructed looks made by upcycling denim and reconstructing new tailored looks, new geometrical combinations of fabrics, fringed elements while reinventing an antique garment making Japanese technique. Among the most interesting examples there were Bossa and Fade Out Label. The debuting Isko Luxury By PG collection reinterpreted this trend by using laser setting geometrical almost cut-out patterns on the fabric.
Isko Luxury by PG
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
Isko Luxury by PG
Beyond the surface
Offering always more shades, surface effects and different strata within the same material is a must. Among others, it was achieved by Isko Luxury By PG through creative striped or damier-effects obtained by using flock applications on saturated bright, bold colors, intricate prints, logos and tattoo effects carvings. 





Also scraping the surface of denim were special laser printed motives, embossing and carving effects as seen at Isko Luxury By PG, Bossa, SM Denim Mills, AGI Denim and Stella Blue By Prosperity and Outside Denim Lab. Among brands, Denzil Patrick and Fade Out Label interpreted this theme with great craftsmanship.

Fade Out Label
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
Fade Out Label
Stella Blue has developed a selection of high-precision printed checked fabrics that once they are washed look as if they were obtained by weaving together yarns of different colors, instead they are not. 





A new generation of cords and bouclé
As part of innovative alternative uses of denim there are also special fake furs, thick irregular corduroys, multi-stripe elements and woven effect patchworks. Also, highly innovative is a bouclé-like surface fabric obtained by recycling old denim garments into new thicker and fibers by the German brand A New Kind of Blue, and a similar aspect fabric by Advance Denim.

A New Kind of Blue
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
A New Kind of Blue
Back to…the past
It’s time for a revamp of the early 2000s. Isko Luxury By PG believe in the return of the typical style featuring exposed skin, low waist pants, micro tops, mini skirts, shrunken garments, butterfly decorations and embellishments.
Jonathan Christopher
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
Jonathan Christopher
Going back further Isko is revamping open-end denims using open-end yarns both for warp and weft, recreating a typical flat optic from the ’70s and the ’80s.





Gender-fluid is classy
The trend of comfy cool, clean and gender-fluid items continues. Among the most appreciated styles seen at the show there were the show’s hostess and stewards uniform, recreating a genderless, no size denim overall by fade Out Label, added with unique metal trimmings and details, but also boxy oversize clean shirts and jeans.

Chottani Industries
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
Chottani Industries
Colors? Yes, please, but back to nature
Botanic dyes by Advance Denim are extracted from raw materials like fruit, lowers, shells, leaves and similar vegetables. They evolve with time and slightly different, though they can make every garment unique. Furthermore, they are biodegradable, don’t contain  harmful chemicals, though are naturally resistant to bacteria and fungi and thanks to the company’s Bigbox dyeing technology they use less water and produce less effluents.
Advance Denim
Photo: Advance Denim
Advance Denim
Also new is Advance Denim’s new BioBlue denim, which is using a green reducing agent during indigo dyeing process free from sodium hydrosulfite.





Rajby is also launching Dope Dyed, a denim selection using Tencel Modal fibers that are already dyed, therefore needs no dyeing process.

Rajby
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
Rajby
Evlox is launching Ice Denim, a new lower impact dyding technology that has improved its saving resources by 60%, and Dry Stone, a new denim with a stone washed look that requres no washing before it is used.





AGI Denim is launching a new yarn-dyed color denim that only uses recycled water for its dyeing and finishing processes.



Machines play their part
Among various participants Wiser Tech, a specialised technology manufacturer, participated in the show and presented WOX, a new ozone bleaching future-minded designed machine that thanks to artificial intelligence algorithms working though the cloud can treat jeans while using no pumice stones, no toxic chemicals, use less water, energy and time while treating jeans.





Emphasizing hemp
While many exhibitors presented their own denims made with hemp, the show organized “Emphasize Hemp!”, a discussion involving expert companies on this topic at the end of the first day of show.

From right: NDL’s Rashid Iqbal, Tom Tailor’s Christina Agtzidou and Juliane Nowakowski
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
From right: NDL’s Rashid Iqbal, Tom Tailor’s Christina Agtzidou and Juliane Nowakowski
The participants were NDL’s Rashid Iqbal, Tom Tailor’s Christina Agtzidou and Juliane Nowakowski, The Flax Company/Marmara Hemp’s Denis Druon and Lenzing’s Michael Kininmonth. Moderating the talk was Maria Cristina Pavarini, The SPIN OFF/Textil Wirtschaft.
From right: Lenzing’s Michael Kikinmonth and The Flax Company/Marmara Hemp’s Denis Druon
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
From right: Lenzing’s Michael Kikinmonth and The Flax Company/Marmara Hemp’s Denis Druon
They shared their experience in this field and pointed out pros and contra, how it can be a valid alternative for the jeanswear market of tomorrow and - above all - the importance of collaborating together within the value chain.






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