The last edition of Pitti Uomo held in Florence on 10-13 January 2023 registered some significant results, despite the first day seemed quieter, the following ones were truly busy, successful and very similar to pre-covid times.

Pitti Uomo
Photo: Pitti Immagine
Pitti Uomo
According to the show's organisation the first attendance figures hit some record numbers as already at the end of third day 12,600 buyers had registered, 33% of whose from abroad, and they estimated that about 14,000 would have visited the show.

 



In absolute terms, the 12,600 buyers that had entered, representing more than six thousand sales and distribution companies from boutiques, retail, multi-brand, department and specialty stores, chains and specialised e-commerce platforms, and they represented an increase of 200% compared to January 2022 and counted 8,400 Italian buyers and 4,200 foreign ones.

Pitti Uomo
Photo: Pitti Immagine
Pitti Uomo
The top ten most attending foreign markets at this edition were Germany, The Netherlands, Great Britain, France, The US, Spain, Turkey, Switzerland, Japan and Belgium.

 



They also registered a return of top Asian buyers from Japan, South Korea as well as buyers from mainland China, China-Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore and Thailand, countries that had been almost absent at the last winter edition.

 



Another interesting result was buyers' attendance from the Nordic-Scandinavian countries (Sweden, Norway, DenmarK and Finland).

 



Trends on show
Despite many companies that used to participate in the show decided not to exhibit or hold events in other contexts, Pitti Immagine remains an interesting shop window for showcasing new projects and chasing for new ideas.

Jan-Jan Van Essche
Photo: Pitti Immagine
Jan-Jan Van Essche
Timeless essentials
Among the strongest trends for f/w 2023/2024, there was a widespread presence of versatile, comfortable and deconstructed pieces meant to be worn for many years like, for instance, shown by Jan-Jan van Essche and Martin Rose, the two special guest designers of this edition.
Martine Rose
Photo: Pitti Immagine
Martine Rose
Classic pieces like coats and suits are reinvented in different materials and fits from thin layer of cooked wool as seen at Harris Wharf London Style wool, in neutral hues but also in bright yellow and blues.

 



No-season is a must
Many exhibitors opted for no-season pieces as an all-year-round service and a more sustainable alternative to fast fashion, as each piece can be worn 365 days a week and can be kept for longer in everyone's wardrobe.

Alphatauri
Photo: Alphatauri
Alphatauri
Among others, sportswear companies believe in the importance to offer its products all year long. From now on Alphatauri will offer its technical parkas Koov for men and Kaav for women all year round. The various functions and features, and in particular Taurobran, its breathable three-layer membrane that ensures waterproof styles, can make of these parkas essential companions for every season.




Tela Genova has presented Four Seasons,  a capsule of denim pieces that are the brand's bestsellers and will be available all year long to be replenished in about 48 hours. They include a little denim and jersey tops and a series of five-pockets in selvedge denim, as the rest of the collection.
Tombolini TMB Running
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
Tombolini TMB Running
Tombolini presented TMB Running, a new selection of suits made with a highly functional and comfortable material made with breathable jerseys and techno wool that can be worn also for running to be worn all year-long.





Jeans are back
In reality jeans were never out, but for this edition of Pitti Uomo many jeans seem to be back on the scene. Among them, Peppino Peppino reinvents the overall in different versions including a grey aged denim and dungarees in aged indigo denim variants.

Roy Rogers
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
Roy Rogers
Roy Rogers, has developed a collection that also includes water-repellent denim outer jackets inspired by the outdoor and hiking world.




Cycle (see our story) has a clear new strategy of relaunch. Similarly, Jeckerson is now back with a new creative director, Mauro Ravizza Krieger, heading the brand's relaunch under Mittel, holding that also owns Ciesse Piumini.





Differently, Handpicked continues to offer innovative fits and product design, while Incotex Blue Division by Slowear offers a selection of interesting materials in the same jeans as, for instance, indigo cord added to different blue shades of jeans.

Incotex Blue Division by Slowear
Photo: Incotex
Incotex Blue Division by Slowear
Art in knitwear
Knitwear is another protagonist of the season. A strong return of thick, Nordic, ethnic jacquard tops, as presented by Filson and Roy Rogers, or decored with pop motives as seen at Chateau Orlando, Herno and St. Barth, are some new must-haves.
Herno
Photo: Pitti Immagine
Herno
Among the most innovative developments, Alphatauri expanded its offer of 3D knitwear and outerwear. The total number of these knits has been increased by 20% and the products are available in functional yarns like a cashmere and merino blend.
Chateau Orlando
Photo: Pitti Immagine
Chateau Orlando
Cord is the new musthave
In many collections, tops, jackets and shirts are offered in thick cord interpretations. Among others Save The Duck and KTN-Kiton chose it in a waterproof version for some of their jackets.
KTN - Kiton
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
KTN - Kiton
Sustainable projects
Various brands are offering their most innovative and sustainable products. A selection of new sustainable upcoming brands was hosted in the S Style section. Among them, there was Waste Yarn Project, a knitwear brand made by recycling unused wool remains from the knitwear industry. The designer offers different patchworks of knitted motives all mixed randomly.
Waste Yarn Project
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
Waste Yarn Project
Junk is an innovative brand of glasses made with Econyl, a regenerated nylon obtained from landfill and ocean waste. The fiber is often used for fabrics,m but in this case it is used for glasses frames.




Exhibiting in the show's main pavillion was Regenesi, an expert companiy that uses recycled PET for new products. For the occasion it launched two new series of hats: a line of felt fedora hats and a line of baseball caps, reversible cloches and other styles in velvet, all made with 100% recycled PET.

Regenesi
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
Regenesi
Innovation in outerwear
Among various innovations from the outer apparel market, People of Shibuya, has announced a change in its name to be shortened to "People", in order to meet a wider and more international clientele's request. The brand is offering a series of new materials like iridescent nylons, paddings in Thermore and Primaloft ,and a selection of pieces made with technical wool by Loro Piana and pieces added with Gore-Tex film for extra performance.
Lion of Porches
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini
Lion of Porches
The Portuguese brand inspired by the British and college atmospheres Lion of Porches has offered a selection of down jackets made in both matt energetic hues and iridescent lucid nylons completed by waterproof zippers.




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