Kingpins Amsterdam was back on 19 and 20 October in Sugar City Amsterdam.
The show was characterized by a very busy and friendly atmosphere, and it was crowded with many visitors on both days. Despite this, according to many, there were fewer representatives from brands when compared with past editions.
Despite it is not a trend, generally, every company is offering new products that are characterised by a sustainable attitude and in most cases achieved after serious analysis and testing.
Among the most significant product trends presented for s/s 2024, there were a strong return to colored denim, ready for dyeing fabrics–either dyed with plain colors or with strong visual effects. On the other side, denim draws away from the '80s optics of heavily washed and acid-wash-like irregular surfaces for subtler weave vintage effects with small irregularities, naps, and cross-hatch effects, along with lighter weight cleaner denims.
Stretch remains a key aspect for all weavers, although it becomes more an intrinsic aspect of the garment meant to provide greater comfort, rather than only offering slim fits and tight-fitting styles.
Oversize remains a key aspect for most of the offer, often hyped by the use of alternative fibers that add drapey and soft effects.
Colored denim is the new must
A strong return to colored denim, most often produced according to environmentally friendly criteria, pervaded the whole show and will characterise the s/s 2024 season…
AGI Denim’s presented Kaleido Denim, a color yarn-dyed denim collection made entirely with an SGS certified process that recycles water in dyeing and finishing and uses any fresh water.
The company also developed Weft Games, a denim with a fresh take on color weft yarns, creating interesting layers of contrasting colors.
Also Officina39 believe that Color is key for SS24. The company has carried ahead experimentation in denim playing with polychromy: we use vibrant colors to play with different techniques to infuse energy and create a summer collection where indigo achieves multicolored shades.
New fibers in the limelight
Some companies have started developing a series of denims based on the use of alternative fibers.
Bossa has launched a new line of brown denim made with cotton that grows already brown, therefore it doesn’t require any dyeing. It is obtained from the growing special seeds from the past and was grown again thanks to a study carried ahead by the University of Akdeniz in Adana, Turkey.
Neela has developed various denims, including one made with banana peel fiber, a remain from agriculture. The fiber is dyed and woven for a denim that has a slight nappy aspect that decreases with washes for a more regular, slightly cross-hatch surface effect.
DNM has developed “Adapt & Move”, a new generation of stretch denims created in collaboration with The Lycra Company, for male consumers of different ages which guarantee great comfort, along with great recovery level. The new line of stretch fabrics offers denims that have 35% elasticity but don’t act any compression on the body of the wearer. “While women are more interested in their jeans’ shaping, make consumers spend more time sitting and expect great comfort and recovery from their jeans,” commented Gokhan Unsal, deputy general manager, DNM.
Calik Denim has developed a new technology, B210. This product can be biodegrade for 99.26% in 210 days and already biodegrades by 90% in 80 days. The technology is based upon a bio-based treatment added on fibers before they are woven that helps shortening the process for degrading as for synthetic fibers, according to Calik, it could take about 500 years.
Treating and upcycling
Tonello participated in the show by presenting a collaboration with PVH Europe and Kingpins. Together they showed the MSP (Most Sustainable Product) collection, a collection of jeans and jackets designed by Piero Turk, tailored by PVH Europe and treated in Tonello’s R&D center with the latest Tonello responsible finishing technologies.
Tonello has also developed a new laser treating system through which garments can be positioned random in the laser treating machine and special sensors will direct the laser in order to treat them properly.
Jeanologia presented a new project meant to support companies that, for instance, collected important amounts of unsold products. Thanks to its technology, it has developed a system for printing whole garments and fabrics by using various technologies and reinterpret garments in very innovative and cool ways. This way, stock items are ready to live a new life.
What makes you feel good?
Tencel and Jeanologia have developed together Sustainable Denim Wardrobe Simple Pleasures, a collection they created after drawing survey a through which they asked a vast number of consumers what makes them feel good. According to such results, and together with fashion designer Betina Grosser, they created a collection made with Tencel fibers and decored with graphics that inspire this sense of pleasure and wellness pointed out by the survey. All treatments were achieved by using Jeanologia treatments.
YKK has developed a new line of accessories for jeans that can be detached. This way, when old jeans are meant to be recycled can be reused entirely, instead of throwing away 30% of year pair. YKK has developed a Detachable Button and a Detachable Rivet that can be easily detached with a single tool
Betting on circular economy
Within the show they also presented the third chapter of “The Circle Book 3 / Re-establish Framework” a collaborative project meant to hype the importance of circular economy. The project is focused on displaying a model aimed at reducing waste, in terms of materials, time and resources, and by doing so providing a selection of items inspired by gender fluidity, seize less clothing and easily disassembling garments.
Jeans School, the international course born as a collaboration with ROC van Amsterdam and House of Denim, in close collaboration with various denim and fashion industry players, celebrated its 10th anniversary with an exhibition showing some most representative creations from the school students.
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