The last Edition of Pitti Uomo is nearing the closing of its 102nd edition. The event was held in very hot climate with record temperatures and a general return of international visitors - already starting from the first day of show, differently from past pre-covid times. In addition to Italian and significant European visitors also US and Japanese participated in the show, therefore a greatly optimistic atmosphere pervaded the Fortezza and the whole city if FLorence.
Exhibitors complained about the still occurring problem of deliveries, as many of them received their sample collections on the same day when the show started and others didn’t even get their full collections in time. Most of the companies continue to deal with the scarce availability of raw materials and an overall increasing of prices for production and deliveries and try to absorb the increases themselves int order not to discourage the final client to buy.
The collections presented as anticipation for s/s 2023 are generally highly innovative as the result from great study and accurate research in terms of material development, product construction and care for the environment.
Special guests and projects
Among the vast selection of personalities and designers the show presented, Soulland was Pitti Special Project of this edition of the show whose collection is developed according to sustainable and transparency criteria.
In November 2020, Soulland released its first annual report on the company's responsible and sustainable initiatives. It was followed by a second publication in November 2021. The goal is to promote a transparent approach, both in terms of the areas in which the brand excels and those in which Soulland has room for improvement.
Also celebrating special annivesaries there were, among others, Roy Rogers setting the highest step with its 70th birthday. Along with it WP celebrated its 40th annivesary, Antony Morato became 15 and Save The Duck held a party for its 10th aniversary.
Hand Picked continues its journey producing jeans according to sustainable criteria by optimizing its production by cutting waste of water and using materials more environmentally friendly like canvas labels. Their study on garment construction has been optimized to avoid the waste of fabric and creates new fits and looks with, for instance, a car that is made of a single fabric panel running from one side of the trouser to the other without any stitching. Other models carry pocket lining and inner belt of the-trouser as a single piece, offering greater comport and an impeccable image. Other models' pockets are not applied on the jeans though built from the inside of the garment.
Cycle, historical jeans brand bought and relaunched by Numero 8 has developed a selection of jeans dyed with natural substances shoe impact on the environment is lower.
Reign Italia, is a “zero Kilometer” Italian jeans brand produced between Marche region and the denim district of S. Egidio alla Vibrata, operating with the aim to keep its impact as low as possible by also using fabrics produced in its surroundings.
The German brand Goldgarn Denim is also highly involved in producing their jeans responsibly, while caring to offer jeans made mostly with Isko fabrics and produced in Turkey only. The brand has also started a charity through which by buying a limited edition t-shirt decored by artists or buying a jean, for each product sold they respectively donate €5 or €1 to the WIR (Water Is Right) Organization.
Roy Rogers celebrated its 70th anniversary by launching a series of total looks, each one inspired by a specific decade, setting its way toward the intention of offering always wider and more comprehensive collections. As part of the collection, there are five historical jeans faithfully reproducing the jeans of those years. As part of the celebrations, the company disclosed a four-minute movie by Bruce Weber that explains how nature and freedom have set the brand’s spirit.
Knitting for the future
The need to wear cosy and cuddling apparel has brought a great focus on knitwear and, especially, on the polo shirt. This evergreen classic on menswear wardrobe is back with lots of innovation, prints, color and new development that make it also a new sustainable must have piece.
Most iconic is the return of Robe di Kappa launching the “Robe Giovani” entirely refreshed collection (playing with its name meaning “Stuff by Kappa” and for this occasion becoming “Young Stuff”), that emphasise the brand’s original values added with new colors and a modern attitude, including a selection of patchwork polo variants from a workshop at its booth within Pitti.
Alphatauri continues to expand its collection including more new developments focused on greater comfort and fucntionality, while offering a collection that is almost twice as large as its s/s 2022 one and including a selection of trans-seasonal styles.
Debuting at the show was Johnny Lambs, a brand recognised for its fancy polos since the '80s revamped and relaunched by its new owner Co.Ca.Ma, also licenser for Liu Jo Uomo brand.
Historically used for crafting linings for formal suits, today Bemberg is also being declined in shirts, cocktail dresses, outerwear and more. Thanks to this synergy the series of t-shirts made with both sheer and blends with other certified fibers, are made with materials like, f or instance, GOTS cotton and RWS wool.
Setting out for new outdoor fashion
The outdoor and sportswear market have given a new emphasis with a renewed attention to fabrics and fibers. Paul&Shark, for instance, presented its Sail The City Typhoon jacket, made with a water and windproof material obtained from recycling unused sails.
D-Vec is a fashion collection made with a special fabric obtained from recycling old abandoned fishnets. The collection offers both smart fashion for men and women but also highly functional fishing uniforms, symbolically meant to give back to those who helped to collect the unused nets
How accessories become indispensable
A vast selection of accessories showed how much they care for protecting the environment. Among them, for instance, there is Vibram launching “1/4 One Quarter”, a new portable shoe model whose sole can be folded and become 1/4 of its length. Its sole is badged upon a special 3-D origami design and made with Litebase technology, a special rubber that is 50% slimmer and 30% lighter than regular Vibram rubber. Therefore, it also requires less material while guaranteeing the same comfort and performance.
Among other brands participating in the show there were also interesting projects like Moshions, a contemporary genderless and no season brand from Rhuanda brand based upon African modern craftsmanship.