Despite the slow return to normality, reduced revenues within the fashion industry and a lower number of exhibitors and visitors, the last edition of Milano Unica held on February 1-2 has reached some encouraging results, and infused in its participants a sense of trust and rebirth.
The show’s main theme and trend forum for s/s 203 was inspired by the idea of vacations and set within a huge imaginary Milano Unica luxury hotel. Among the “destinations” of this trip visitors could choose among - Ecoresort, Ecoyacht and Ecopalace - three main trends meant to inspire sustainable holiday references like nature, the sea, the sun, the beaches and cultural cities. Also Milano Unica exhibitors have defined the main "trend destinations" where they feel the market is moving. The SPIN OFF has picked some most significant ones.
Love was in the air during the last Milano Unica. While the show underlined the importance of education, especially for forging the next generation of entrepreneurs and designers, among the events hosted by the show, Brunello Cucinelli, visionary entrepreneur and founder, Brunello Cucinelli, kept a talk with fashion students helping them understand how to follow their inclinations. He said: “I think what counts in life is to follow own’s own crazy passion. Start creating your ownbrand and follow it. Even if it won’t become very big and famous brand, follow it with care, love and your greatest passion.”
Iluna followed this direction by taking a more ecofriendly path and has been increasing its production of sustainable laces season after season. Since 2017, the company has been using only sustainable and certified Roica stretch yarns from the Roica Smart family of yarns and its sustainable products have increased from 3% to of 2018 to 52% of 2021. For the s/s 2023 season it has also developed a series of innovative products including laces completed with lurex. Others mix a chenille yarn with FSC-certified viscose and Renycle yarns, a product by Radici Group obtained by recycling nylon 6, a high-value material with excellent strength, softness and versatility.
The Wool Lab, Woolmark Company’s inspiration platform, has presented various themes showing new directions for the use of wool. Among them there is “Uniformal”, a reinterpretation of the business apparel into everyday dressing, either more elegant or casual, depending on constructions and blends. Merino wool can be interpreted most differently as can be used for 3D textures when inspired by cotton and Oxford fabrics but it may also have more technical characteristics as it can be reinterpreted also in elegant and refined ways. “The wool shirt is an absolute new solution in menswear as it is stretch, it never wrinkles, is very lightweight and always comfortable. It’s a new evolution and more versatile direction of business wear we have called ‘Uniformal’,” said Francesco Magri, regional manager Europe, C&A, The Woolmark Company.
Eurojersey, a specialist in producing Sensitive Fabrics by Eurojersey knit fabrics according to sustainable standards, has developed a new series of effects and prints that recreate embossed or printed logos, linen fabric surfaces and various other effects. Among others, they have launched a new fabric that looks and feels like cotton pique, but is a knit fabric jersey. Another development its offered looks and fades like denim when it is washed, though is as soft, lightweight and draping as jersey.
Going back to nature and taking care of it continues to be a must, though some manufacturers have just developed some new natural materials that can truly help to preserve the environment as they are based upon it.
Among them for instance, Albini, through its Albini Next textile research hub, has developed Re-Oxyde, an upcycling project, which uses inorganic pigments based on iron oxides, obtained by recycling ferrous waste materials from the home appliance industry.
Hemp Feel is a new green softening product to be used in the finishing phase, done with a vegetable oil containing hemp oil. This product, which came into being thanks to a collaboration with Montex Italia, contains no silicone and does not release microplastics.
Grounded Indigo, also developed by Albini Group, is a natural indigo substance obtained from regenerative agriculture.
Marzotto has also developed B-Dynamic, a 100% natural wool bi-stretch performance fabric with unsurpassed anti-fold performance. It is designed for those who love freedom and dynamism to be worn in every moment of their life.
Brunello is an Italian specialist in the production of linings and other fabrics obtained from mixing various fibers together. Among them there is Bembazin, a fabric used for ceremony dresses, especially appreciated by African countries, made with cotton and Bemberg. “We think that fluidity is a must in these days. Fabrics are devised to be multiple-use - for a party or in daily life - but also typical feminine fabrics used for men’s apparel are used int he opposite way around,” commented Manuela Della Vedova, marketing and communication manager, Brunello.