Although many insiders' expectations were not very high, the latest edition of Denim Première Vision held in Milan Superstudio on October 13 and 14 was successful and its atmosphere was sparkling and optimistic.
The show, the first one held in person after the London edition of December 2019 (the last one before the pandemic hit), was much awaited by insiders willing to meet, speak and network face to face again. It was also attended by a significant number of visitors.
"I am enthusiastic of the result we achieved," said Fabio Adami Dalla Val, Denim PV's show director. "The first day of the show we registered the presence of very high-profile visitors from the denim and fashion scene, apart from very good numbers. Of course, they are not the numbers of prepandemic times, but we cannot expect similar levels with all the travel limitations. But there were visitors, apart from Italy, from France, Germany, Spain and Denmark among others."
"And we could achieve all this thanks to a great teamwork we started since long, thanks to our past collaborators and the new ones who have just joined us and immediately tuned in with our aims and working method," he added.
The main themes companies focused on were an increased attention on products with a low impact on the environment. Not only exhibitors expressed this, but also the show's trend area, which was entirely made with recyclable materials, including panels created from recycle wood, textiles and other leftovers as developed by art consultant Filippo Maria Studio.
Itema, a global specialist in weaving machine manufacturing, has developed Isaver, a mechatronic device that once applied onto denim weaving machines can help to save up to 1,000 kilos of cotton per each machine per year and avoid the waste of about 20,000 liters of water.
Chemical specialist Officina+39 has launched Novascraper Indigo, a new technology that gives a natural vintage look to denim garments treated with laser finishing. It provides a natural vintage effect that resembles handmade scraping, although it requires less manpower and energy and produces less waste.
Elleti Group, the Italian jeans manufacturer and finishing specialist, presented new alternative treating methods as part of its mission to lower the environmental impact of the fashion industry.
As a few years ago, Elleti inaugurated its own Elleti Group Museum of Denim, it presented two of its rare vintage pieces and re-created them by following eco-friendly treating techniques according to environmentally sustainable technologies. It used laser, ozone, ice-blasting, nanobubble technology and new, non-harmful chemical products, by using the “Wiser Wash” technology, a patented washing method that eliminates the use of all potentially harmful chemicals and pumice stones, while drastically reducing the water consumption throughout the process.
Officina +39 also presented the results of its Circular Kromia collaboration with Atelier Riforma, an innovative Italian startup. The company's goal is to reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry, promoting its transition towards a model that is as circular as possible. Atelier Riforma manages the collection of discarded clothing and, through a network of upcycling professionals spread throughout Italy, gives them new life through sartorial creativity.
Through the contribution of Officina+39’s Recycrom, they obtained new pigment and dyestuff by pulverizing discarded garments and pieces, usually difficult to recover through tailoring transformation alone. All garments have been supplied and selected by Atelier Riforma, and came to a new life thanks to Officina+39’s technologies. The result is new trendier and more sustainable vintage garments.
Soko Chimica has developed Lumia, an alternative jean finishing technique that uses no potassium permanganate. The new technology does not use any acid or oxidizing agents and doesn't need any heating process to react nor moisture for activation, and can be used for both dry and wet garments.
Italian laundry Blue Jeans Lavanderie Industriali has developed another alternative treating method for aging jeans as it uses special icosahedrons made of polyamide that can be regenerated, used for a long time and doesn't release any microplastics.
Calik announced a series of new collaborations, including a special capsule collection with KOI-Kings of Indigo and blockchain technology company Aware. Among its various new products, it has also developed E-Denim, a fabric made with a new core-spun fiber whose inner core is made with recycled fibers and its outer part made with a mix of fibers in part recycled up to 70%. This way the resulting fiber is higher resistance, though highly comfortable and made with a highly recycled fiber content.
How stretch gets good
Prosperity is launching some stretch fabrics that leave no trace once they are left to degrade. In particular, its BioGen PLA fabrics are made with a renewable bio-based fiber that biodegrades to biomass and releases no microplastics.
Naveena has developed Self-FIT, a new stretch fabric made with fibers that brings ahead its Wraptech 2.0 innovation, a three-core smart stretch yarn. These new special stretch fabrics can be worn by consumers who wear two sizes larger or two sizes smaller. This way brands can simply offer three sizes–S, M and L–and can avoid that too many jeans items are returned, or remain unsold and go to a landfill.
Discovering future healing
Bossa is launching Future Healing, a new selection of fabrics that are not only beneficial for the planet, but also for people's wellbeing. They are made with high-tech materials such as hemp, soybean, Repreve, Naia, Ciclo, and Smartcel. This last innovative fiber is based on natural cellulose, which includes the essential trace element zinc, which is said to have a great impact on our wellbeing as it is vital for our immune system, sensory functions and metabolism as well as skin regeneration and protection.
Also Sharabati Denim is offering a series of fabrics made with fibers meant to make consumers feel more comfortable. Among them, there are denims made with a cotton-linen mix and 100% Tencel ones.
While Denim PV has returned to happen as a live event, it also hosted a happy hour at the end of each day of show. It also hosted a series of talks and conferences. Among them there was the launch of "Between dream and reality" project presenting two unique dresses as part of a collaboration between PG Denim fabric company, the fashion designer Barbara Corradini and the Regio Theatre of Parma that hosts an internal haute couture atelier and fashion course. As part of the initiative, a young student of the school hand sewed the two dresses presented at the show.
Chemical specialist Offcina+39, Lenzing and creative studio Meidea recently presented the second edition of their collaborative project The Circle Book 2: the power of collaboration and circularity. As part of this partnership, under the “Act Together” motto they demonstrated how it is possible to create designs and projects related to responsible circular fashion.