Japanese designer Michiko Koshino will be one of the protagonists of the upcoming edition of Denim Premiere Vision in Berlin, the specialized trade show that will take place at Arena Berlin on May 31st and June 1st.
The designer will participate in the show with a series of projects, including the round table “The '80s London culture scene, a new ‘fashion stories’ event” together with artist Chris Sullivan, and moderated by Alessio Berto, pattern designer, product expert and teacher.
Koshino is a well-known fashion designer, illustrator and trailblazer. She started operating in 1974, after she graduated at Bunka Fukuso Gakuin College of Design in Japan and moved to London armed with her education and unbridled passion to create her own fashion brand.
In 1979 sh founded her own brand Michiko London which was soon appreciated for ther bold and daring design and her strong ability in silhouette design and crafting technique, plus her ability in discovering, using and interpreting high-tech fabrics for new high-function-meets-fashion apparel pieces, along with the invention of her first "inflatable jacket" in 1983 and very innovative silhouettes, she became especially appreciated for.
She has also been strongly tied to the music scene of the ’80s, when club culture and house music fused together and created the basis for new youth culture and fashion movements.
Koshino spoke with The SPIN OFF about herself, he past, present and future projects, while explaining what new creations she will present at the upcoming Denim PV.
The main trait that I would use is "urban avant-garde." I strive to create designs that blend streetwear elements with high fashion, resulting in a distinct and edgy base aesthetic.
What projects and brands are you working at now?
Currently, I am focused on exploring new avenues and expanding my creative ideas, regardless of the current market demands. I have accomplished a lot in the past, and now I am driven by my own instincts and feelings. I believe in staying true to my artistic vision and pushing boundaries, regardless of what others may expect or what is trending at the moment.
For the upcoming edition of Denim PV you will present an installation. What will be its main characteristics? What did inspire you?
For the upcoming edition of Denim PV, my installation will embody the concept of Darwinian evolution within the denim world. I aim to create a thought-provoking and visually captivating experience that reflects the dynamic evolution of this iconic fabric.
When approaching the design process, the first step for a designer is often selecting the fabric swatch. From there, I develop a concept that embodies the aesthetics of the fabric swatch and translate it into the design–all steps I also followed in designing the uniforms.
I took inspiration from the swatch fabrics provided by various companies and infuse them into the uniform design. By harmonizing the essence of denim with the unique qualities of each brand's fabric.
What do you think of the present state of the jeans market?
The denim market has been rooted in a traditional aesthetic, often revolving around the classic five-pocket concept.
There hasn't been significant movement or innovation in pushing the boundaries of denim as a fashion statement. However, the future holds a bright prospect for denim when we break free from the limitations of the familiar five-pocket pants and explore new fashion aesthetics.
It is essential to challenge the status quo and embrace fresh perspectives to unlock the true potential of denim as a versatile and fashionable fabric. By venturing beyond the conventional and experimenting with new designs, we can usher in a new era of contemporary denim looks that excite and inspire.
In the future seasons, I believe the jeans market will continue to evolve by incorporating sustainability and technological advancements. There will be a greater emphasis on eco-friendly production methods, innovative fabrications, and customization options. Consumers will seek unique and personalised denim experiences, leading to collaborations between brands and artists.
Sustainability is an aspect dominating the industry at present. What do you think about it?
Sustainability is an essential aspect dominating the fashion industry today, and the jeans market is no exception. It's crucial for denim brands to adopt sustainable practices, such as using organic or recycled materials, reducing water and energy consumption, and promoting ethical labor practices. Sustainability has become a driving force in shaping the future of fashion.
Sustainability and aesthetic are not juxtaposed. They can coexist harmoniously. It's essential to create contemporary denim looks that are visually appealing while also considering their environmental impact. By embracing sustainable practices, innovative materials, and conscious design choices, we can achieve both a stunning aesthetic and a positive contribution to the industry.
What can be done further to offer denim garments that are increasingly compliant with sustainability requirements and contribute to the environment?
The fashion industry has a responsibility to address sustainability concerns, and denim production is no exception. To offer denim garments that are more compliant with sustainability requirements, several measures can be taken like, for instance, embrace organic and recycled materials: Using organic cotton or recycled denim reduces the environmental impact associated with conventional cotton production and virgin denim.
The market can start implementing eco-friendly dyeing and finishing processes by adopting water-saving dyeing techniques, such as foam dyeing or air dyeing, can minimize water consumption and pollution. Exploring natural dyes and eco-friendly finishes can also contribute to sustainability.
Reducing water and energy consumption is key. Implementing efficient manufacturing processes that minimize water usage and energy consumption can significantly reduce the environmental footprint of denim production.
By combining these efforts with consumer education and awareness, the denim industry can move towards more sustainable practices and contribute to a greener future.
What counts most in jeans today?
Technology is key. The upcoming advancements in fabric technology hold great promise and potential, and it will be fascinating to see how they enhance and revolutionize the world of denim. With each new technological development, the horizons of ideas and possibilities will expand, pushing the boundaries of what can be achieved in contemporary denim fashion.
As a designer, I have a deep appreciation for the versatility of denim. While I enjoy incorporating traditional elements as a foundation, I also strive to introduce new silhouettes that reflect my urban style.
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