This is not science fiction, but a reality developed by Spiber Inc., a biotechnology venture from Yamagata, in Japan.




Among the different applications this company develops Brewed Protein polymer produced through a fermentation process that uses sugars and microbes, rather than petrochemical or animal-derived raw materials.

Spiber materials
Photo: Spiber
Spiber materials
These materials can offer alternative solutions to a wide range of conventional animal-based, plant-based and synthetic materials for various purposes, including textiles applications for the apparel industry, which is the company’s primary focus.





Among the different applications Spiber fibers can offer there are films, filament yarns, staple and spun fibers which can also be used for knitwear and woven fabrics, along with denim, fleece, fur and leather alternative materials.





Some (recent) history
Spiber was founded in 2007 by Kazuhide Sekiyama and Junichi Sugahara who began investigating in spider silk while at Kejo University, but only as of 2022 they started its first mass production plant in Rayong Province, in Thailand, with production scale slated to increase over the coming years.

The North Face Moon Parka using Spiber fibers first released in 2019
Photo: The North Face
The North Face Moon Parka using Spiber fibers first released in 2019
Since 2022 Spiber has started collaborating with some renown apparel companies and brands including The North Face Japan, Goldwin, Yuima Nakazato, Sacai, and Pangaia. In addition, it has also released a mascara using Spiber's Brewed Protein fibers under Shiseido’s Maquillage brand.





The company’s name is inspired by natural origin materials like highly resistant spider silk–hence the company and the material's name combining the words “spider” and “fiber”–as the founders’ original goal was to use biotechnology to produce and commercialize protein fibers with similar properties to natural spider silk.





  

How silk-like properties meet cashmere, but impact less
These nature-inspired, plant-based materials guarantee high levels of insulation, breathability, along with a soft and luxurious touch similar to cashmere, though they offer the potential benefit of significantly reduced comparative environmental and animal welfare impacts.

Yuima Nakazato f/w 2021 using Spiber Brewed Protein fibers
Photo: Yuima Nakazato
Yuima Nakazato f/w 2021 using Spiber Brewed Protein fibers
Among future aims the company aims to reach, when compared to cashmere production, Brewed Protein's production could emit fewer GHG emissions, require less water, and cause 97% less land use when compared to cashmere.





Moreover, Brewed Protein fibers biodegrade in natural soil and seawater at ambient temperatures, or can be broken down into nutrients for reuse, and have the potential to close the loop in supply chains, and to enable circularity.

The North Face/Eye Junya Watanabe Man hoodie
Photo: Goldwin
The North Face/Eye Junya Watanabe Man hoodie
Alongside with that, the company is also seeking and pursuing opportunities that will allow minimising footprints throughout the value chains for production of finished products that use Spiber.





For instance, it has started developing the capacity to create dope-dyed fiber-made by mixing dye into the Brewed Protein polymer solution before spinning into colored fibers. Once it will complete implementation of this process at commercial scale, it will be able to offer pre-colored fibers which can then be used to create colored spun yarns and fabrics without requiring a subsequent dyeing process and the consequent impact on water and the environment.





From sugar- and corn-fed proteins to old textile-derived ones
The company is also working to minimise its operational footprint through cleaner energy procurement and raw materials produced using regenerative agricultural principles, while also striving to ensure high standards of sustainable sourcing and human rights throughout its value chain, including the well-being of its own employees.

Sacai T-shirt made from a cotton-Spiber Brewed Protein blend
Photo: Sacai
Sacai T-shirt made from a cotton-Spiber Brewed Protein blend
Spiber is producing its Brewed Proteins material in a plant in Thailand. The key raw material it mostly uses to produce polymers is Bonsucro certified sugarcane, which, they claim, offers higher traceability and lower negative environmental and social impact than the industry average.





 

A second commercial production plant in the USA is currently under preparation in collaboration with ADM, a multinational food processing and commodities trading corporation, and is scheduled to commence production within the next few years.

Fur-like material made from Spiber Brewed Protein polymer
Photo: Spiber
Fur-like material made from Spiber Brewed Protein polymer
By the time when the US plant will become fully operational Spiber and ADM will jointly support the adoption of regenerative farming practices, therefore Spiber is targeting to use 100% sustainably sourced corn by 2025.




 

Among other future studies, the company aims to acquire additional experience and know-how and start using unused or old textile and apparel waste as nutrient raw material for its Brewed Protein production as an alternative to sugar.





Future targets
To demonstrate its commitment to best practice in social environmental and governance topics, Spiber is aiming to achieve B Corp status as early as 2024, in order to certify its standards of performance, accountability, and transparency.

Yuima Nakazato look made with Spiber Brewed Protein fiber
Photo: Yuima Nakazato
Yuima Nakazato look made with Spiber Brewed Protein fiber
In addition, it is aiming to disclose its sustainability activities aligned with the GRI (Global Reporting Initiatives) standards for its Sustainability Reports within 2023 and aims to reach Net Zero by 2035.






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