The Last edition of Première Vision held in Paris from 7 to 9 February, disclosed a wide selection of innovative materials. The SPIN OFF has selected some of the most interesting developments presented during the show.
Brewed fabrics are the future
Spiber, a Japanese biotechnology venture that has developed its Brewed Protein structural protein materials, produces a special fiber manufactured through fermentation of plant-based ingredients that can be used to create unique materials including films, fabrics, knitwear, eco-furs and eco-leathers.
Iluna, specialised Italian lace manufacturer, presented its newest laces based upon upcycling, eco-high-tech finishing and responsible ingredients. The company presented its newest developments following its responsible path by presenting laces dyed with16 new dye stuffs derived from natural substances obtained from flowers, roots and plants. It also continued investing in technologies that can ensure significant savings in water and energy consumption, including Greendrop, its new GOTS-certified digital pigment printing system.
It has also developed a new selection of plissé laces, and a selection of sustainable lurex laces of whose more than 50% of its production is GRS certified and a special flounce made with over than 65% recycled materials.
Polygiene, a specialist in producing finishing and treatments that helps keeping fabrics stay clean and free from odors, among other properties, made a special test. As thanks to its Polygiene Stayfresh application on apparel and fabrics, they can be washed less often, it proved that by washing one time less out of three times a t-shirt, each item can help saving 51 KWH hours electricity every year, equalling to 500 hours computer use, along with saving 3,800 liters of water. Moreover, garments can last longer. Therefore, the reduction of impact on the environment of that garment can be of one third less.
Tech Style is a new 3-D printing technique that debuted at PV. Thanks to special machines a vast series of patterns and custom-made motives can be applied permanently on almost every fabric, knitwear, plastic or leather surface and obtain most different visual and tactile pattern and effects of the surface of the item. The special technique can also be added on buttons.
Zipping up environmental protection
Riri, a specialised zipper and closure manufacturer, has presented a selection of innovative developments including, among others, a special sustainable finishing that can be used as an alternative to traditional and more polluting electroplating techniques. It also introduced a series of pullers made with recycled polyamide or olive wood. Moreover, as part of its selection, a wide series of ribbons are made with GRS-certified recycled polyester.
Cadica, specialised label and packaging manufacturer, has developed its special Drone Label, a special label that carries a hidden RFID circuit through which a garment can be traced throughout its productive process inside the company and beyond.
It can be traced throughout its whole value chain because it is resistant to water and finishing treatment processes and, eventually, it can also be be used also afterwards once it enters in the retail circuit and arrives on the shelf. It can also be used as antitheft measure and be traced when it enters warehouses as a stock. Plus it resists washing up to 90° washes and bleaching once it arrives in the consumer's hands.
Naia, Eastman’s traceable filament and staple fibers, presented a vast series of tops, dresses, T-shirts, sweaters, comfy pants and more clothing items made with the fiber mixed with other fibers or entirely made with it.
The fiber is produced in a safe and circular way, with a low tree-to-fiber carbon and water footprint by using responsibly sourced from sustainably managed pine and eucalyptus forests. NaiaTM is also TÜV Austria-certified as biodegradable and compostable.
Involving younger generations
The Italian fabric manufacturer CNC Tessuti, in partnership with fashion and art school Istituto Marangoni Firenze, has started focusing on several topics linked to sustainability, and involving students of the Fashion Design Master’s Degree.
Based on circularity and the “Upcycling Project” concept, CNC Tessuti provided students with scraps or old inventory they could reinterpret them according to four themes: Cut Off featured a suit made with production scraps; Zero Waste, presented a dress made with the entire fabric provided, without cutting it using the entire piece of fabric for creating the garment; Dead Stock presented new items created from leftover fabric cuts, giving new life and enhancing these pieces, by reinterpreting them in a new, modern way; and Stock Redesign, using stock bolts of fabrics redesigned for new applications.
Rocle by Isabella, an offspring of the Pierre Rocle weaving company, founded in the Tarare textile basin of France in 1856, is a specialist in producing fabrics for underwear and bathing suits has launched a new collaboration. Within the last edition of PV it presented a collaboration with the Maud & Marjorie bathing suit and sports apparel brand. The special capsule included stretch jacquard fabrics for sports made with at least 10% Lycra EcoMade fiber, the brand's first elastane containing unused fibers recovered from production sites.
Les Tissages Perrin, a specialised French top-notch silk fabric manufacturer from Grand-Lemps in Isère, is now offering a Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certified offer of fabrics. These extremely fine materials are extremely sinus and fluid as they follow the body movement thanks to the presence of Lycra fiber.
From milling to weaving, Les Tissages Perrin have recently completely revised their manufacturing process to develop these new qualities in organic silk yarns, whose touch and characteristics are rigorously identical to the conventional version of their fabrics and which have made their success over time.