Moorer, the Italian high-end sportswear brand, has launched the Denim Autentico capsule collection, a new project for f/w 2023/2024 that was born from the meeting between the brand and Alessio, Berto, pattern-designer and expert insider of the denim and fashion industry, known for his expertise and sensitivity towards the denim world.
From this collaboration was born a selection of 11 garments that pay homage to the American jeans of the 1950s through some iconic patterns and details characteristic of that particular style of casual clothing.
The garments feature authentic and timeless fits inspired by constructions, details and finishes from the golden years of denim. In-keeping with their authentic approach, the garments are sold without having been treated or washed.
For this capsule, nothing has been left to chance but is the result of tireless, almost maniacal research, according to a careful study of details, made possible also thanks to the study of period garments kept in Berto's archives.
One man's and one woman's shirt styles are inspired by the workwear world, but also moods of The US Navy WW2 military style, as well as a classic overall.
"I designed this capsule, selected the materials, the accessories and the fits in order to recreate and pay homage to a truly authentic product that is no longer around, but it has a unique timeless beauty we can all learn from and we can perfectly continue to wear today," he added.
Moreno Faccincani, founder, Moorer, explained to The SPIN OFF the characteristics and goals of this project.
We always try to push the limits and push ourselves to the maximum. We like to experiment using sophisticated materials and complex techniques in a constant quest for progress. This collaboration, because of its uniqueness, is a challenging creative push for us in true Moorer style.
Your brand already offers a premium selection of denim garments, both jeans and outerwear. Why did you want to launch a second one?
This new capsule of ours was created with the intention of exploring the history of denim and returning its most authentic appeal to our consumers. We wanted to create a line of pure denim garments, untouched in its original state before it suffered the wear and tear of time or the treatments we are used to seeing today.
To accomplish this, we turned to the top expert in the field, Alessio Berto, a seasoned professional who helped us understand how the most authentic denim clothing is created.
We paid special attention to every tiny detail, just as we do with all our brand garments. As with our quilts, we chose to explore denim with very high dedication and attention to research, to offer our customers the highest quality and authenticity.
What fabrics did you use?
The garments were made with a specially created selvedge fabric, using only the original looms of the time, to be even more true to the original workmanship of the time. We chose Japanese denim from Kuroki for jeans and jackets, and Kowa chambray for shirts.
Are accessories also true to this spirit?
We wanted to recreate garments that were more true to the origins, paying special attention to every feature and detail such as yarn colors, tension of the bar tacks, including stitching and finishing.
For the seams, we chose thinner threads than those used today, and the stitches in the seams are shorter than today's to give the garments a more refined look. Also, bar tacks have less tension and are much more similar to those used in the 1950s.
For the denim garments, we chose buttons, pulls, zippers, and suspender elements of the denim garments that reproduce accessories from the Universal brand, one of the earliest brands of workwear and denim accessories, now acquired by YKK, and made with authentic vintage finishes.
The fish-eye buttons on the shirts, on the other hand, are made of white plastic, very similar to those on the historic garments.
Because it features so many details and specific technical elements, it is dedicated to a niche market composed of true denim experts who can appreciate the research behind this project.
Could this capsule become a new brand in the future aimed at a specific target audience, or a specific niche market?
I don't think so, no. It is not in our plans at the moment.
Through which channels is the capsule sold? Are they the same as your main collection?
It is sold through the same channels and finds its ideal location in the most exclusive stores in our sales network.
At what prices is it sold?
Despite the costs incurred in researching and processing the fabric, thanks to the complete lack of washing we have been able to keep prices fairly in line with the rest of our collections.
Are you planning to reach consumers who did not buy your brand in the past through this capsule?
I'm not ruling it out.
Do you think it could become a kind of carry-over capsule, always available for future seasons?
That's a possibility I don't feel I can rule out.
We have received very positive feedback from the most specialized and exclusive stores. The authenticity with which we made this capsule is a plus that really impressed, especially because nothing was left to chance to make it.
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