Denim Premiere Vision has closed the doors of its last edition held on 27 and 28 May 2015. The show’s atmosphere was positive and busy even if there were rumors circulating about the possibility that the show might be considering to move back to Paris or eventually to another city. “We are happy with what we have reached in Barcelona and want to continue staying here, also considering the important investment we made,” commented Chantal Malingrey, director of the show. “By changing our show’s layout for this edition and showing the whole trend area at the entrance, we have created all parallel corridors that let visitors flow through the show easily, let all exhibitors see each other directly. This is a more pleasing work atmosphere and easier to work in for everyone.”

Visitors and exhibitors believe that the show presents a wide selection of international key players in the market, even if according to many some exhibitors from most different parts of the world and of different quality levels. According to others the city of Barcelona is not the best place for making further research by visiting interesting shopping spots or checking cool and new consumer trends. On the other hand, the city is very user friendly, not too expensive and very well organized.

In terms of trends three major aspects continue to dominate denim and jeanswear. The newest fabrics for f/w 2016/2017 will be either characterized by innovative surface effects for new treatments, weaves, material mixes and ageing effects, eco-friendly - in terms of most sustainable materials and treatments employed - or  highly functional.

Beyond the surface
Surface effects are often more important than what lays below – at least in fashion. Shiny optics, wooly surfaces, and harshly aged denim were some of most outstanding visual effects presented for f/w 2016/2017. Glossy and shiny looks also characterized many denims as, for instance, Calik Oxygene’s new eco-friendly denims, and Prosperity’s Seal Denim, a fabric with a glossy aspect treated in order to create 3D effects after garment finishing.
Lenzing believes in a strong comeback of sateen also in jeanswear. This type of weave can lend itself to many employs and treatments since fabrics maintain their soft hand, they can be treated easily either with garment-dyed techniques or printed effects.
Denim Valley by Tejodos Royo presented a series of wooly effect denims like Calik did. Prosperity also launched its Feel-It Cashmere-like denim in 100% cotton or with added Tencel.
Bossa presented a series of harsh denim treatments by breaking, mending and applying some slight metallic coating effects. Also new were a series of indigo fabrics produced by Bossa’s shirting and sportswear fabric division. Some shirting fabrics can be used on both sides  – for cool turn-up effects – and others carry ethnic subtle jacquard motives.

Denim steps into technology
Highly functional fabrics continue to represent the new frontier in denim.
Tavex presented a new line of multidirectional stretch denims – e-360° by Tavex, a further evolution of their Triblend highly functional stretch denim, now enhanced by further multidirectional stretch-ability. Tejidos Royo presented its new Hug Denim, a highly-stretch and comfortable bi-stretch denim also incorporating Lycra Beauty stretch properties, meant to be used for new trouser models reminding of leggings. Isko launched its Blueskin ultrafunctional four-way stretch denim. Also new was the announced partnership between Emana, polyamide-based yarn, developed by Solvay Swiss chemical group, and Fulgar, Italian specialist in producing synthetic and coated yarns. They launched the new technology Emana Denim by Fulgar, a yarn with far infrared technology offering valuable well-being effects on the skin guaranteeing blood microcirculation and therefore, anti-cellulitis, comfort and beauty enhancing properties. Emana produces the technology while Fulgar spins and distributes the ready yearn.
Isko recently announced the European patenting of its Isko Future Face technology, a woven technology that looks like a circular knitted fabrics and guarantees the same comfort of sweatpants with a denim-like look.

Friendly with Nature
Eco-friendliness represents an aspect many companies continue focusing on despite not many products are visible in stores yet. Referring to this objection Alberto De Conti, chief marketing officer of chemical company Garmon, commented: “I think in the next months many brands will offer more eco-friendly apparel lines, especially according to the echo of what we have been presenting since the last two weeks,” he explains. Garmon has joined the GreenScreen, a methodology approved by Greenpeace for certifying non-harmful chemical and substances. GreenScreen has approved 40 of the chemical products employed by Garmon.
They presented their progress in this direction together with Orta, also strongly involved in ecofriendly matters and also employing some of the Garmon products (also see here).
Orta also presented its complete new offer of Vegan Denim, a selection of denims all made by employing vegetable indigos and natural dyestuff on industrial scale.
Calik also launched its Oxygen technology (also see here) that combines 100% cotton special dyed yarns with regular finishing processes. These fabrics can be treated in faster times (about 50-60% faster than normal denims) and employ less chemicals, water and energy. They can also be treated with laser, ozone, sand-paper or enzymes through various laundry treatments.
Also caring for the environment is the newest process developed by Jeanologia, who presented the Blue Technology exhibition comparing old denim treatment techniques with the most modern, made-to-measure and less harmful ones.