What seemed so normal for the industry just a few weeks ago, namely displaying collections in showrooms and trade fairs, has now moved into the distance. It is all the more important to use digital platforms, especially for newcomer labels, and to position yourself digitally in general. So here is our Paris correspondent's selection of interesting newcomers spotted at the recent Paris fairs Tranoï, Man/Woman, Première Classe and at the numerous showrooms:
"I use only jacquard fabric. All models are reversible," explains Céleste Durry, founder of the Studio Rice brand, showing the inside of her models in black damask. After 15 years at July.Bët and working for Jean-Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler, the trained fashion designer set up her own studio in Paris about a year ago. The Frenchwoman describes her style as cross-gender, cool and elegant. "I revisit streetwear classics with luxurious materials and polished finishes." The jacquard fabrics she uses come from a Lyon-based company that has specialized in jacquards since 1930. The collection is produced in France, even a big part in Paris. The fabrics are often remnants and overhangs and therefore many models are also limited. The retail prices are around €900 for jackets and €250 for fanny packs.
Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor, who studied in both New Delhi and Milan and worked for Etro for some time, founded his own label in 2014. His collection captivates by mixing European tailoring with Indian influences. Decorative elements such as frills, gathers and large-format embroidery are Kapoor's specialty. With his collection, the 32-year-old, who was already named an "emerging talent" by Vogue India in 2015, wants to break through the archaic rules of gender and express female emotion and empathy through his designs. All models are produced in India, but Kapoor pays close attention to social and ecological aspects. He has committed himself to zero-waste and uses fabric waste for accessories and decorations. Wholesale prices are around €150 for clothes.
"The bag that gives back" is the slogan of the Texan company Junes, which was founded by Janean Mann in 2014. The shopping bags from El Paso are made of a washable, degradable polyester mesh. The fabric comes from Turkey, is cut in Los Angeles and sewn in Mexico. Junes works with an all female sewing co-op in Ciudad Juarez, Mexico, offering sustainable income for 18 women there. For every bag sold, a donation is made to stop violence against women in Mexico. According to the company’s information, more than 100,000 women have already benefited from this help. The bags can also be printed or customized for retailers with their logo or slogans and are said to stand a weigh around 20 kg. For consumers in the USA and Canada, there is also a new recycling program in which old fabric bags are collected and recycled. The consumers taking part receive a shopping voucher for recycling theirs. The retail prices of the Junes bags, which are available in four different shapes plus a pocket format, range from €39 to €50.
The South African label Babymoh!, founded 16 years ago by a married couple who sold their brand to the Hinterveld Group three years ago, uses exclusively kid mohair for their scarves, gloves and caps. Sales manager Gabrielle Lily Darné, responsible for Europe, explains: "Kid Mohair is made from the first shearing of Angora goats. This yarn is very long-threaded and therefore as elastic as it is durable.” A special knitting technique makes the long and very cuddly scarves very stretchy, the loose stitches guarantee lots of air spaces to keep the wearer warm. All products are completely made in Africa. Babymoh! pays attention to an extensive traceability and has joined several environmental seals: Besides the Oeko-tex Standard 100, the company guarantees the "Responsible Mohair Standard" and only uses "certified sustainable mohair,” which promises ecological farming and sustainable processing. Wholesale prices range from €38 to €56.
The Belgian label Collectors Club, from the Ghent area, is already quite successful in its home country. Shops in Bruges and Brussels have stocked the young womenswear label, founded in 2018, for several seasons. It also has its own e-shop. Now the two founders Nele and Veerle Von Doorslaer want to take the plunge into other countries and therefore exhibited for the first time at Première Classe. The idea behind their collection is to be able to "collect" new pieces for it again and again. The brand name was derived from this goal. The design is largely pure without becoming classic, in order to remain combinable over several seasons. All Collectors Club fabrics are sourced in Italy and Japan. The production is concentrated in Europe (Romania, Poland, Italy). Retail prices range from €250 to €500.