With the haute couture shows already starting today Paris Men’s Fashion Week, which ran June 28 to July 1, was one day shorter than usual so buyers and press faced a tight schedule. About 45 shows took place all over town, among them well-known designers such as Yves Saint-Laurent and Lanvin and also avant-garde names such as Petar Petrov and Tillmann Lauterbach. Many designers such as Martin Margiela, Bernhard Wilhelm, Christian Dior and Kris van Assche (who made his Paris debut) showed their new collections with presentations instead of traditional catwalk shows.

At the same time the menswear edition of Tranoï, Tranoï Homme (tranoi.com), which ran June 29 to July 2, presented a mix of new luxury brands in the location La Bourse. Among the 100 brands there were names such as newcomers Peter Wiesmann and 24/7 Suits, Compl8, Dondup, April 77, Whyred and Hope.

Rumors spread that for next season the trade show will move to a different location and give room to more exhibitors.

Rendez-Vous Homme (rendez-vous-paris.com) also took place June 29 to July 2. This time the show was held in four small locations in the trendy Marais area. Buyers and exhibitors were very pleased with the new settings, which resulted in a rather intimate atmosphere. “It is easier for the buyers if they do not have to face too many collections in one place,” said one agent. Among the 80 designer collections at this show were brands such as Material Boy, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair and Loden Dager.

At all shows exhibitors were quite happy with the number of visitors and important buyers from stores and department stores such as Selfridges, Bergdorf Goodman, Isetan and United Arrows.

Fashionwise the collections did not unveil amazing ideas. Silhouettes remain rather slim with a bit more emphasis on the shoulders. Sportswear elements such as zippers or technical fabrics could be spotted almost everywhere. Shirts, especially white shirts in all kinds of variations, were among the key pieces. Colors range from light and dark grays and black to light lilac and soft blue tones.

— Sabine Kühnl, Executive Editor